The Proper Way to Paint a Wall -

I have done a lot of painting. I have also read a lot of tutorials on painting. After many years and rooms of trial and error, I have found the absolute proper way to paint a wall. There is a method to the madness and the order you do things makes a difference! Read on and be sure to watch the video tutorial at the end!

Step 1: Wash the Trim and Wall

Before you start, make sure cobwebs are gone from where the wall meets the ceiling, baseboards have been dusted, and everything is clean. Wash the trim and wall with warm, soapy water and a washcloth.

Step 2: Remove Obstacles

I have seen people paint around outlet covers and I always think, what’s the point? Remove any easy obstacle like outlet covers, air vents, curtain rods, etc. Move furniture and take down wall art.

Step 3: Caulk

**If you do not have painted trim, you can skip this step.**

This step has to come next because of you do it after painting, the caulk will collect dirt and dust like you would not believe. I’ve been there. Whenever you apply latex caulk, you should always paint it. I prefer latex caulk because it cleans up with water. Silicone caulk requires acetone to smooth over and clean up.

When applying caulk, cut the tube at a 45 degree angle and load it in your caulk gun. Facing the cut hole down, squeeze a bead of caulk across the crevice between the trim and the wall. If you have existing caulk in the space, simply touch up caulk where it has cracked or deteriorated.

Next use a gloved finger or rag and dip it in warm water. Smooth over the bead of caulk to push it into the crevice and get a smooth finish.

Step 4: Paint Trim

**If you do not have painted trim, you can skip this step.**

When the caulk has dried, paint all the trim in the room. I have mine painted a high gloss enamel latex white paint. High gloss is a good choice for durability. When painting, protect the floor with a flat piece of cardboard or a large drywall knife if you have one. This tool is fabulous for pushing down high pile carpet in order to paint the trim.

It is important to over-paint the top of the trim. Just slap paint on sloppily and over extend the line where trim meets wall. You want to get all that caulk covered. The time to get a straight line will come next.

Whenever you paint a room with painted trim, don’t skip the trim. Spending the extra steps to caulk and throw one coat of paint on the trim will make your paint job look way more professional.

Step 5: Edge the Wall

Use an angled brush (this is my fav) to edge against the trim. I put a lot of paint on my brush and apply it to the wall close to the line where the trim meet the wall. Then I “cut in” by pushing my brush down to make a precise edge with the bristles. I slide the edge of the bristles with paint on it against the line where the wall meets the trim.

This step is where you need to make a straight line. I prefer not to use “special tools” for this task, but if you would like you could try Frogtape. If you are going to tape a straight line, remember to buy one-coat coverage paint so that you can remove the tape before the paint dries for a cleaner line. Also – run a wet washcloth over the tape after application to “seal” the adhesive edge. This results in a cleaner line as well.

I prefer to just use my angled Wooster brush without tape. It is important to look at the line straight on. When painting baseboards, I usually rest my head on the floor so my eyes are straight on with where I am painting.

Another tip: It may seem counter-intuitive, but I actually think it is easier to get a straight line painting fast. Going too slow can prevent my arm motion from following the natural paint line.

**Important** The biggest mistake people make when edging the wall paint against trim is making big brush marks. This is because “cutting in” creates a circular motion with the brush and uneven distribution of the paint. After I am finished cutting a straight line, I always run my brush flat across the area to apply even coverage near the trim.

Step 6: Roll The Wall

Use a 1/2″ nap roller if you are hoping for one-coat coverage. Just watch for drips! If you are planning to do two coats of paint, use a 3/8″ nap roller.

Larger areas will go fast with a 9″ roller on a short handle for control. I avoid using long handled rollers unless I am painting a floor or ceiling. Use a 4″ roller for hard to reach or smaller areas like below and above windows, above doorways, and on skinny walls. The right tool makes all the difference.

Tip: Paint in a “W” motion to prevent streaks or drips and increase coverage.

Another Tip: It doesn’t matter if you edge first or roll first. However, you should try to prevent the paint from drying before meeting the edging with the rolling area. Having one person edging and one rolling helps achieve this.