Table of Contents

• Demolition
• Ceiling and Floor Work
• Painting
• Installing Carpeting, Doors, and Trim
• Adding DIY Artistic Touches
• DIY Shelf
• Cool New Additions to the Space

Basement Demolition

First, I am tackling demolition. The ceiling tiles were easy to pull down because they were just stapled to furring strips across the ceiling joists. I am wearing a respirator because there was a LOT of nastiness on top of these. I was extremely put off by the surprises I found above my ceiling tiles. The first was a cardboard box I found tucked above the wall’s top plate. Inside the box was a bunch of receivers and security equipment. I am pretty sure this is just junk, but you never know what it might have been used for. Why would someone hide them in the ceiling? I always try to repurpose or sell materials, but unfortunately, the ceiling tiles had to be thrown away. Luckily, I was able to sell the oak trim from the baseboards, door casing, and the ceiling edge cove moulding.

Ceiling and Floor Work

Next, I am taking down all of the furring strips to expose the joists. I have an idea for the ceiling that I think is going to look very industrial and cool. I want to leave the joists exposed to give the room more space. Open ceilings will result in some heat loss to the upstairs, more noise transfer, and maybe other things. This means that if I decide this exposed joists isn’t working out, I can always reinstall the furring strips and put up a ceiling again. At this point, someone had successfully shown up from my Facebook marketplace ad to take away the laminate flooring. They uninstalled it, and I did not have to lift a finger!

Unfortunately, that was not the case for the carpeted stairs. This carpet was installed with tack strips, a no-no for stair treads, so kids walking up and down in bare feet would sometimes get pricked! I am happy to say goodbye to this in favor of something that is higher quality and gets installed correctly.

Painting for my Basement Makeover

Now it is time to start prepping for paint. I spent a lot of time filling blemishes in the drywall, sanding them smooth, and wiping everything down. Everything is getting vacuumed from the concrete floor to the ceiling joists. The ceiling was definitely dirty, so after vacuuming, I wiped the rough-sawn lumber with a rag. These all have to be clean, so my paint job is successful!

The paint I am using is a color I mixed up from leftovers. I have so many paints in storage that I will not need for touch-ups, but there isn’t enough for a new project. So, by combining all of them, I can save them from the landfill and give them a new purpose.

You can combine paints of different sheens (most of mine are satin, some are flat), but you cannot combine different types, like oil with urethane alkyd. All of the paints I am mixing are latex-based. I am straining the paint through a tea towel, but I should have purchased an actual strainer for this because they are so cheap. This process removes chunks of latex, specks of rust from the old cans, and ensures my paint mixture will go through a sprayer. I added a gallon of new black paint to this mixture to give me enough of the color.

In total, I used 3.5 gallons of paint in my basement project because I am color-drenching. The dark color covered my ceiling joists, but it is also going on EVERY wall. The color-drenching trend has intimidated me for most spaces I design, but in this basement, I think it will be perfect.

Carpet, Door, and Trim Installation

Now that the painting is done, it is time for our new carpet to be installed. I am going with a super thick underlayment and 60 oz carpet for a luxurious and soft feel underfoot. It seems like the carpet raised the temperature in this basement by five degrees. I did have this carpet installed by a crew from Lowe’s and was SO impressed with their process!

Next, I am installing new doors for the space to lead to my cellar and utility room. Unfortunately, I ordered the wrong door. The handle is supposed to swing out towards the right, so the light switch makes sense. Because there is no space for the door to swing into the cellar, I have to flip the door and make it work. Updating doors and trim work really makes the whole space feel new, but this is the tedious part of the remodel. I opted for a minimalist trim painted white to match the rest of my house. I am installing the baseboards level and finding the studs so I know where to nail it.

DIY Ventilation Covers and Wall Art

There are a few spots in the basement that we need for piping ventilation to prevent freezing. I had the idea to cut an old wooden closet door with the louvered slats and add a piece of wood to the end to make it look like a vent. Then, I just painted these DIY vent covers to match the rest of the room so they blend in. As you can imagine, I have a lot of wood scraps in my garage workshop, and I have been wanting ot do a project with them to use them up. I started cutting them into squares to create wall art for this basement project.

How I Made my Wall Art

I set up a stop block on my miter saw to make repeated cuts of exactly the same measurement. When a scrap was too small to safely hold, I used a push stick so I did not get hurt. I used up all of my wood scraps and only had to cut into one sizable piece of plywood to get enough squares for my design. Each of these squares has a different thickness.

• 2x4s: 1 1/2 inches thick, 1 inch thick
• 1x4s: 3/4 inch thick
• Plywood: 1/2 inch thick
• Thinner plywood: 3/8 inch thick

This gives me 5 different levels where I could place my wood squares next to each other in random order to create visual interest. I am using glue to attach the wood squares to a thin piece of sheathing plywood. I did not clamp or nail; I just pushed them into the glue and let it cure overnight. When the glue is dry, I am staining my wood scrap masterpiece with a dark walnut stain that I think will bring some warm tones to my basement design. Then, when that was all dry, I attached a heavy-duty wire across the back and hung it from a wall stud. I chose a particularly ugly spot where the drywall seam was visible in an effort to hide it. This piece weighs about 30 lbs and is 2.5 feet wide by 4 feet long.

DIY Shelf for Behind the Sofa

Another DIY project I did to make my basement more functional is building a skinny shelf that goes behind the sofa. I purchased an 8ft long 1×8 board, primed it, and painted it black. I did the same thing with a shorter piece of 1×8 to cover the open side. Since this will all be hidden behind the sofa, it does not matter that I installed brackets that I do not like. My laser level kept everything lined up just right. Then, I am attaching the two boards together with pocket holes drilled on the backside of the shorter board and securing my shelf onto the brackets. I am making a custom cutout to fit my power strip! Now I have accessible electricity on the top of my skinny shelf! This will power my project, which sits up in the window well, in addition to my new speaker system.

New Additions to the Basement

This new basement has some super cool new additions. Of course, it got a new projector and sound system for movie nights, but some other special things also got added. One of the biggest hits for my kids is the foosball table! My 9-year-old Theo had one request for this space: LED lights, so of course, those are also a new feature. These can change colors and are music-activated to flash to the beat during dance parties. My personal favorite new addition is the modular couch. It is so comfortable and perfect for everything I need it for!

This project has been a long time coming, but I think it was so worth the wait!

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Table of Contents

• Focal Points
• Floors
• Lighting
• Furniture
• Textiles
• Plants

Focal Point

Let’s start by talking about focal points. The porch on the front of my house is enclosed on three sides, so the innermost wall needs a focal point. I used to have a hand-lettered sign here, but it was not scaled to this space. Now, I am covering the whole wall with faux boxwood panels to make it look like a living wall. Now, a simple sign in front of that has a strong presence. In addition, the texture this accent wall brings to the porch is definitely a focal point!

The back porch is open on three sides, so the best thing to do here is make the ceiling your focal point. I am removing the boring exterior light fixture in favor of an outdoor chandelier with candelabra light bulbs. Since the original 1930s beadboard ceiling was in decent shape, I just patched it up and gave it a fresh coat of paint. The beadboard on the other porch was in bad shape, so for this ceiling I cut strips of thin plywood, sealed them on all sides to prevent warping, and used a brad nailer to attach them spaced with a nickel gap between planks. This ceiling gets so many compliments and was really affordable to do. I thought it wouldn’t last long, but 5 years later it still looks so great!

Porch Decorating: Floors

Next in my porch decorating, I want to address floors. If your porch, like mine, has wood floors, you have probably dealt with some rot. My porches were originally interior spaces, and when the previous owners removed the storm windows and half walls in favor of railings, these wood floors became exposed to the elements! The right thing to do is rip out all the rotting wood and replace it with outdoor-grade flooring, like composite decking. That is what I did for our back porch. However, the front porch got a bit trickier. Because the front porch is mostly enclosed and we use it more like an indoor space during the summer, I did not want gaps between floor boards that would be required with any kind of decking.

At first, I tried to patch and paint the floor. I removed a huge section of rot and even rebuilt some of the porch floor framing to try to salvage a solid floor. With paint, it did not look too bad, but it did not last long. Soon, the paint was chipping!

In one last effort to keep the current floor on this porch, I recently covered it in carpet tiles. I am loving the coziness underfoot when enjoying our front porch this year, but several people have told me the carpet will expedite the wood rotting underneath. Lastly, if you have a concrete porch floor, consider that paint might not hold up as well there either. Instead, try a concrete refinishing product as I did on this step, leading to our back porch. You can add colorant to tint the concrete to any color, and after application, your concrete looks absolutely new! 

Porch Lighting

Moving on to lighting ideas for your porch. On my back porch, I have a fancy outdoor chandelier, but my favorite is and always will be string lights. They add so much ambiance and soft lighting to my outdoor spaces. You can even buy solar-powered string lights! In addition, you could consider running rope lighting, if you have siding like mine, you can tuck it in a J channel and hide it away. I must say, I prefer to enjoy time on the porch by candlelight whenever it is possible.

Furniture

Porch furniture typically revolves around sitting and relaxing. Rocking chairs are some of my favorites, so I recently added them to my front porch!

I am so lucky to have big porches, so there is space on the back porch for a full dining set. This table is extra skinny, custom-built to be only 2 feet wide so it can accommodate the chairs being pushed back and people maneuvering around it on and 8 foot wide porch.

In a past front porch design, I had a large chest of drawers on it. This is an interior piece of furniture, so the back corner, where it is mostly protected from the elements, is the only place it could be. But if you have a porch that feels like it comes to a “dead end,” consider putting storage there. All of these furniture ideas are things you can do moderately easily, but if you want some WOW factor, consider building a bed swing. Everyone in my house absolutely loves spending time on the bed swing, if you have space for it, do it, it is SO worth it!

Working with Textiles

Textiles on your porch can make or break how inviting and cozy it feels. If your porch lacks cloth, rugs, or throw pillows, you risk it looking empty and basic. In my original front porch design, I layered colorful throw pillows on the bed swing to make it feel more inviting. Putting textiles outside does require maintenance. We bring the cushions, pillows, and other fabric materials inside when there is inclement weather and over the winter. There are so many great choices for outdoor textiles that are UV and water-resistant. The carpet tiles that I recently installed are meant for outdoor applications has both of these attributes. Adding textiles softens your whole space and elevates any porch decor you put with it.

Porch Plants

With any porch, you should decorate with plants. This is a space that is meant to be a transition between the indoor and the outdoor; plants just make sense! However, you might find that when a porch roof shades the space 100% of the day, it is hard to get any living plants to grow well in containers. In this case, I would recommend hanging planters that you can hang from eye screws in your porch’s header. I custom-made the ones on my porch out of scrap wood, so the pots are easily removable. Another idea is to just go faux. I am impressed by how realistic some faux plants are! Do not forget to do the landscaping around your porches as well, mine could use some work, but I am getting there!

These porch decorating ideas have transformed these two spaces into features of my home that we enjoy so much! I hope this inspires you and fills you with ideas for decorating your porch.

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Table of Contents

• Demolition
• Framing
• Prep
• Paint Wash
• Installation
• Trimwork
• Finishing Work

Finishing Up Demolition

This tray-style wood accent ceiling is going above the kitchen island that I built last year. My entire ceiling was torn down to the beams. Some areas of my ceiling have plumbing in the way, so I can only bring the accent up to the 9-foot height in one spot.

Framing for the Wood Accent Ceiling

Once I have the space for my ceiling accent cut out, I am framing the edge to create a perfect rectangle. Then, I am adding 2×4 supports across the middle and screwing them into the ceiling joists. I had to shim these up to be level because the plaster ceiling is not level at all. In some spots, I shimmed as much as an inch. It is important that these supports are level because they will be what is holding this wood accent ceiling up.

Prep Work

Now that my ceiling is ready, it is time to cut and prep my plywood. I am starting with a big 4×8 sheet of 1/2-inch thick maple plywood. Next, I am cutting out holes exactly where my lights are going to hang. I found this by holding the plywood sheet up to the ceiling and drawing the circles with a pencil. The sides of the accent will also be plywood, but my dimensions of the opening are 10 feet by about 5.5 feet. For the 10-foot sides, I could not find 10-foot-long plywood, so I joined a few pieces together using a bevel joint, pocket screws, and wood glue.

The sides of this accent are supposed to slant upward towards the 4×8 sheet of plywood. To create a slant I am cutting an angle, like a bevel, on the edge of each piece of plywood. I am making these cuts with my table saw.

Paint Wash for the Wood

Once all of my wood is cut, I am creating a paint wash. This wash is just a little bit of paint in a lot of water. Paint wash allows you to control the finish more than a stain does. In addition, it kind of masks some of the wood grain below. My plywood is not all maple; some of it had to be birch. I knew if I stained it would end up different colors. Making it all match is so important! I also think that this is going to help me blend the seam from connecting multiple pieces of plywood. I am applying one coat, and after about 10 minutes of it soaking it I am going in with a cloth and wiping up the excess. This color matches my island finish so well! When it is fully dry, I am going in with a high-grit sandpaper and knocking down the raised grain. After this, I am sealing it with a spray-on matte poly.

Installation

For the installation of this wood accent ceiling, I had to enlist the help of my husband. These pieces are not easy to hold over your head! To help us, I came in with a 4×4 plank and tensioned it between the sheet of plywood and my kitchen island counter. This worked and let my husband drop his arms. To attach this, I am using panhead screws, and they are going into my wood supports on the ceiling. Now is the moment of truth!! Time to see if my bevel cuts line up with the edge of the sealing and the plywood. When they were pushed into place, the seams were TIGHT. This allows me to just nail my finish nails right through the piece of plywood into my framing and the plywood. I had to do a lot of trial and error with my end pieces, so I recommend using scrap wood first.

Trim Work for the DIY Kitchen Wood Accent Ceiling

Now I am cutting custom trim work. This is for the edges, to cover up where my beautiful plywood tray ceiling meets the drywall. I want to make this edge look pretty; the trim is going to make it look so polished and finished. These have to be cut custom because nothing in the stores fits what I want. I am using the furring strips that I took off the ceiling to make this trim. To get the look I want, I am cutting 30-degree bevels into them and carefully using my table saw to make trim that is 1/8th of inch across. To make these furring strips look good, I have to fill SO many imperfections in the wood then sand them smooth. I am using a primer to seal them.

Finishing Work

Before I can install any of the trim I have to completely finish the ceiling. This includes caulking all of the corners and edges. I am using color-matched caulk to make the edges blend in and disappear. I am also resealing the whole wood accent ceiling with roll-on satin poly. Once this is dry, I am installing my trim. I am installing with a miter joint! Now, I finally get to add the hanging light pendants from Lowe’s. This really brings the whole ceiling feature together!

I hope you love this wood ceiling accent as much as I do. I think it completely transformed my entire kitchen! If you want to see more accent ceiling designs I have done, I have an entire roundup!

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Table of Contents

• Starting the Demo
• Kitchen Design
• Plaster Wall Removal
• Building Ceiling Joists

Starting the Demo

This whole remodel that I did not plan for started when I got a new refrigerator. My new fridge is taller than the opening in my current kitchen, so I need to move a shelf up to make it fit. After making my new refrigerator fit, I am removing the barndoor and its sliding hardware. This inspired me to continue removing everything I did not like in my kitchen. I started with the bulkhead above the cabinets, then I removed the knotty pine ceiling, and next I am taking down the wall paneling. At this point, I am thinking I am going to redo all of the services. I am so happy that I found people who wanted to repurpose the knotty pine and wall paneling. Under my wall paneling, I found MORE old wall paneling and removed that too. I am getting down to the plaster walls. Above the stove, I am also removing the bulkhead! In addition, I need to remove the furring strips so that the ceiling can be plastered!

Plaster Wall Removal

I am taking down plaster and lath on one of the walls in my kitchen. To begin this part of the demolition, I am putting up plastic sheeting. This is going to create a kind of room to ensure that the plaster dust does not get all over the rest of my kitchen. The plaster here is VERY loose and cracking. I am using a prybar to remove it, and it is easily falling away from the wall. This created so much debris, but it only took 30 minutes to do. I am so happy to have all of this removed; it is going to look so good when it is drywalled.

Building Ceiling Joists

Now that the demo is, for the most part, done, I am going to start building in ceiling joists. This is so that the drywall can happen next. I need 2×4 supports every 24 inches to hang my drywall. I am also cutting some of the ceiling joists! This is to make room for my accent ceiling design that is going to go above my island. Where I am cutting, I am adding 2x4s to the ends of the joists.

Kitchen Design

I want walls that are drywall so they are repairable, unlike the panels we had before, made of MDF. Another thing I want is a featured ceiling, it is going to be a tray design with angled edges! To be honest, my new design is going to look similar to what I have now. I still love the black cabinets, but it really bothers me that they do not match. My plan for this kitchen is to make a lot of upgrades. Matching cabinets, new ceilings, and nicer walls! My overall goal is to make this kitchen look modern and well-designed rather than pieced together over the years.

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Table of Contents

• Prep Work
• Align the Door in the Frame
• Installing the Pre-Hung Door
• Finishing Touches

Prepping to Install the Pre-Hung Door

The first step in installing a pre-hung door is to expose the studs and framing. You need to prep your opening to be big enough to fit the door you are installing. I used the measurements that came with my pre-hung door and cut the opening accordingly. To cut into my drywall and expose the studs I am using my oscillating multitool. This makes light work of the cutting process! PPE is a MUST for this step, I wore a respirator, goggles, and ear protection. It gets loud and very dusty.

The next step that is necessary before you can hang your door is checking to see how square your framing is. If the framing is not square, you need to add blocking. I am using a nail gun to hold my blocking in place where the door is not square.

Aligining the Door

Once the door opening is completely prepped, you align the whole kit in the opening. It is important to keep the jamb and door shut together to maintain the square. If you have exposed everything correctly, the door should fit well in the hole. It is important to check alignment because if you are slightly off the door will look wonky in its opening.

Installing the Pre-Hung Door

When you have ensured the door is aligned, it is time to install. You need to shim behind each hinge. Attach the frame of the door to the framing where you shimmed. I am using 2.5-inch long 16-gauge finish nails, but you can also use screws. It is vital that you maintain level in all directions, and then you can repeat the shim and nail process on the opposite side of the door.

Finishing Touches

Now that the door is hung, you can remove the plug that keeps the door closed. This is located where the door handle will be. You need to take a hammer and knock the plug out of place, and then grab it and pull the plug out. My door needed more threshold clearance, so I cut a bit off the bottom and sealed it. Next, I am installing the handle set in the pre-drilled holes. Finally, I am adding the trim around the door. Now the door is completely installed. To make it complete, you just need to caulk seams, fill nail holes, and paint!

This door looks so good and adds privacy to my kitchen! Installing a pre-hung door is so much easier than you would think, try it out yourself!

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Table of Contents

• Building the Box
• Heat Protection
• Placing the Box

Building the Box

The first thing I am doing for how to redirect a heat vent is building a box out of plywood. This box has 4 sides because the floor will count as a fifth side, and the sixth side needs to be open for the hot air to escape. To construct this box, I am using pocket holes and Kreg screws. This box is going to prevent the air from coming up into my cabinets. Instead, the air will move forward and out the front of my toe kick.

Heat Protection

Because this is a heat vent, I need to think about how to avoid heat from absorbing into the wood and causing problems. To combat this, I am using tinfoil. All 4 sides of the plywood box that I constructed are being covered in tinfoil to prevent issues. To be honest, I am making this up as I go because I did not find any tutorials that fit my needs. I am duct taping the edges of the tinfoil so that it will not crinkle as the air moves through the cavity. I am also adding tinfoil to the subfloor that my box is going to be sitting on. Obviously, the best way to do this is to buy a heat-proofing kit, but I wanted something more cost-friendly.

How to Redirect a Heat Vent: Placing the Box

At first, I thought I would need to fasten the box that I created to the subfloor, but I was wrong. Once the tinfoil was in place on both the box and the subfloor, you just put the box in its place. The reason there is no need to fasten it to anything is that, in my case, my cabinet is going right over it, and that will hold it in place. Next, I am placing my cabinet on top of the box, and the air is flowing out of my toe kick. When I cover my toe kick, I will just add a removable vent cover!

I hope you found this project helpful! As always, if you have any questions, please let me know!

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Table of Contents

• The Idea
• Setting Up the Circular Saw
• Making th Cut

The Idea

What I am going to do is use my circular saw. This can cut up to 50 degrees, and I will add a piece to the plate to increase the angle I can cut. The angle I want to cut is 60 degrees, so instead of doing 50 and cutting 10, I am doing 45 degrees on my circular saw and cutting 15 degrees to attach to the plate.

Setting Up the Circular Saw

To set up the circular saw the way I want it, I am moving the bevel on my table saw to 15 degrees and lifting the saw blade all the way. The first thing I am doing is cutting a sliver off of a 2×4 that I can attach to the plate on my circular saw. Next, I am setting my circular saw to a 45-degree angle. I still need it further, which is where the 2×4 I just cut comes in. I am attaching the shim to the faceplate by first putting down painters tape, which is going to protect my metal from getting glue on it. After the tape is in place, I am hot-gluing the wood that I cut on top of it.

Cutting the Wood

To cut my wood, I am starting by laying the plank down on a piece of foam. The foam is going to help my table saw not cut into anything, as well as stabilize the plywood. To cut the wood, I am using a straight piece of plywood and taping it down as my saw guide. When doing this, make sure you are using fresh tape so it is as grippy as it can be. I measured my blade when it was at this bevel angle, and it is 3.5 inches long, so I made sure to measure that far away from my straight edge. I am cutting my wood right on the end of the piece, so I do not take any extra material off. Because this is getting cut from the edge I need help with stabilizing. I am using another piece of 3×4-inch plywood to support the free edge. Now, you just have to cut! I am running my circular saw along the guide across my piece of plywood.

These cuts turned out amazing! I am so glad I figured out how to do this safely. I hope this method is helpful for you in your projects.

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Table of Contents

• Wood Plank Ceiling
• Simple Beams and Faux Shiplap
• Galaxy Ceiling
• Lakehouse Living Room Rustic Beams
• Office Fretwork Panel Ceiling

Wood Plank Porch Ceiling

When I was redoing my front porch for the first time, it was clear that the ceiling needed to be redone. There was so much black and white on the exterior of my house that I wanted to add wood to warm it up. This project is very cheap and quick. It only took me three days and cost me a little over $80.

To do this project, I cut strips of very thin plywood to the same width. I chose to run these strips horizontally across the ceiling, which is perpendicular to the existing ceiling planks. For this project, I went to the hardware store and got seven sheets of 1/8 inch thick plywood. I ripped all of the wood down to size using my circular saw. I used polyacrylic on all of the edges once they were cut down. This avoids moisture getting into the plywood planks. To attach them to the ceiling, I used an air compressor and brad nailer combination. In order to get the exact same spacing, I used a quarter between each plank. To finish this ceiling design, I rolled polyacrylic across all of the boards!

This ceiling has now been on my porch for about five years! I still love the way it turned out and how much warmth it brings to the space! If you want to watch the full video tutorial on how I did this, click here!

Simplistic Beams With Faux Shiplap Planks

The next ceiling makeover that I did was in my living room. My living room has beautiful nine-foot ceilings, and I knew they needed something more than just popcorn texture. I chose to make three large beams to accentuate the height of the ceiling. To put anything up on the ceiling, you have to look for the joists. It turns out, my joists run every 32 inches across the ceiling. Once I had my joists marked, I could screw my 2×6 support beams to the ceiling. If you are going to do this, I would suggest predrilling and half-sinking your screws. This wood is heavy, and predrilling makes for less time holding it up on the ceiling! Once my beams were installed, I added my planks. These are made from 1/8 inch thick plywood. I used a nail gun to install these planks. This is a super cheap way to get a faux shiplap look! Once all of these beams were in place, I went around all of the edges with caulk and painted them all white.

Next, it was time to move on to constructing the beams. I used 1 x 6 x 14 feet long lumber for this project. When you buy lumber, you have to sand it down. There are always a ton of slivers, and if you want them to accept stain, they need to be sanded. I used my random orbital sander on all of my wood. After sanding, I went over my wood with a pre-stain wood conditioner. Once that was dry, I went in and stained. When the stain dried, I cut all of the planks to length. I created the beam shape using a homemade jig and finish nails. I attached the beams to my 2×6 support beams using 1 1/2 inch screws.

This ceiling still, 4 years later, looks so good! It is definitely a focal point in my living room. These beams are much easier to build than they look. If you want to try to build them, this video is a step-by-step process!

Galaxy Wallpaper Accent Ceiling

All of the ceilings in my home are plaster and so boring. My daughter requested a galaxy ceiling to make her bedroom more interesting. To make her dreams come true, I found peel-and-stick wallpaper that is an image of a galactic scene. The dimensions of the wallpaper were not quite big enough for the room, but I figured I could add some molding along the edges, and it would work. This solution works well for ceilings that do not look good. You can use any peel-and-stick wallpaper you want to create an accent ceiling. This process is a little bit tedious, but the result is worth it! To install this, you peel the backing of the paper off little by little and stick the wallpaper down. The toughest part of this is getting the seams to line up! Once all of my wallpaper was placed I added molding to cover up the unfinished edges!

This accent ceiling option is one of the easiest to do and I think that you can really transform a space with this. The options for wallpaper are almost endless, so you can customize this however you like. If you want a full install tutorial, check it out here!

Slat Wall and Ceiling Design

This design is not limited to just the ceiling! It flows from the wall up onto the ceiling. I wanted to add visual interest to the bedroom in my lake home so I chose this project! To install the slat wall design, I am using a laser level; however, a regular 4-foot or 6-foot level can also be used. The first step, being straight, is the most important; from there, you can use a spacer to build off of it. I am using a nail gun with 18-gauge brad nails about an inch and a half long, shooting them in at crisscrossing angles. If you shoot your nails straight into the slats can pull right out of the drywall. My slat design goes onto the ceiling; to install these 10-foot-long slats alone, I put up a temporary ledge. I put one end of my slat on this ledge board, then lift the other side and put my nails in.

I love the way this ceiling and wall design looks! It matches the vibe of our lakehouse so well! If you do not want a full ceiling design, this might just be the problem for you. If you want to read about how this entire bedroom turned out, here is the post!

Diagonal Rustic Ceiling Beams

This next accent ceiling is also from my lake house! I had such an extravagant idea that would absolutely transform this formerly dark and dingy space. The beams I built in this space are larger and more difficult to build than the ones I built for my home living room. Using 16-foot-long pieces of grade 2 pine, I cut beveled edges lengthwise on my table saw. I assembled them using packaging tape and wood glue. To get the perfect long beveled edges looking distressed, I came in with some power tools to beat these beams up. Once distressed and sanded, I used a custom mix stain of Chestnut and American Walnut to bring life to the beams. For beam installation, I planned out my wood supports with a laser level and put blocks in the ceiling, then screwed the beams in.

These rustic beams truly make this room look so warm and welcoming. If you want to learn how you can build your own, you can watch the YouTube video!

Fretwork Panel Ceiling

This accent ceiling might be my favorite one I have done. I transformed a bedroom in the lakehouse into an office, and I wanted to add a wow factor. I landed on a fretwork accent ceiling. Not only did I add fretwork panels for a design, but I also painted them and the ceiling green. This created so much visual interest in a space that would have otherwise been a little bit boring.

To install these panels, I used a laser level that was centered on the light fixture in the middle of the room. Then installed my first fretwork panel centered on that. Every other panel was based upon the placement of that first panel. I used a cordless brad nailer to nail them into place. Once all the fretwork panels were in place, I installed crown molding to coverup any edges that were not cut the smoothest. I finished this ceiling off with a beautiful chandelier.

This DIY accent ceiling transformed this office space. It feels so upscale and unique. Want to see the whole bedroom-to-office transformation? Here it is!

Kitchen Accent Above an Island

This is my most recent accent ceiling. I am remodeling my kitchen and I wanted a whole new ceiling! I used to have wood running across the whole ceiling, but I wanted something more exciting than that. Last year I built an amazing kitchen island, so I decided I wanted my accent ceiling to highlight that. This accent is directly above the island and the rest of the ceiling is drywall. I used wood planks to design a rustic, yet modern, look.

I am truly so proud of how this accent ceiling turned out. It was a difficult build. I think it matches the rest of my kitchen and home so well, so all the hard work was worth it.

I hope at least one of these accent ceilings that will transform any space inspires you!

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Table of Contents

• Focal Point
• Porch Floors
• Lighting Ideas
• Porch Furniture
• Plants

Decorating for a Focal Point

First, let’s talk about the focal point! My porch in the front of the house is enclosed on three sides, so the innermost wall needed a focal point. I used to have a hand-lettered sign there, but it wasn’t to scale with the space. Now, I am covering the whole wall with faux boxwood panels to give the look of a living wall. I am adding a simple sign in front of that. This area of my porch has definitely become a focal point.

The back porch is open on three sides. The best thing to do in this case is to create a ceiling that is your focal point. I removed the boring exterior light fixture in favor of an outdoor chandelier with candelabra light bulbs. The original ceiling on this porch is in decent shape, so I am patching it up and giving it a fresh coat of paint. The longer I live with it, though, the more I think about repainting in a more exciting color! The bead board on the front porch is in bad shape. For this ceiling, I cut strips of thin plywood, sealed them on all sides to prevent warping, and used a brad nailer to attach them. I am spacing with a nickel gap between planks. This ceiling gets so many compliments and was really affordable to do.

Porch Floors

Next, I want to address the floors. If your porch has a wood floor like mine, you’ve probably dealt with some rot. My porches were originally interior spaces. When the previous owners removed the storm windows and half walls in favor of railings, these wood floors became exposed to the elements! The right thing to do is rip out the rotting wood and replace it with flooring made for outdoors. That’s what we had done on our back porch.

However, the front porch is a bit trickier! Since the front porch is mostly enclosed and we use it more like an indoor space during the summer, I didn’t want gaps between floor boards. At first, I tried to patch and paint the floor. I removed a huge section of rot and rebuilt some of the porch floor framing. With paint, it didn’t look too bad, but it didn’t last long. Soon, the paint was chipping! In one last effort to keep the current floor on this porch, I am covering it in carpet tiles. I’m seriously loving the coziness and softness the carpeting brings.

Lastly, if you have a concrete porch floor, consider that paint might not hold up the best there either. Instead, try a concrete refinishing product. I did this on my the concrete step up to my back porch and it was a game changer. This will help your concrete look brand new!

Large Porch Lighting Ideas

Moving on to lighting ideas for your porch. I have already talked about my outdoor chandelier on my back porch, but that is not my favorite lighting option! My favorite is and always will be string lights. They add ambiance and soft lighting that I love. You can even buy solar-powered string lights now! Another option to consider is running rope lights. If you have siding like mine, you can tuck it in a J channel and hide it away. I do try to spend as much time on the porch with candlelight as I can during the summer months

Porch Decorations: Furniture

Porch furniture typically revolves around sitting and relaxing. I love a great set of rockers, so I am adding a pair to my front porch. I am blessed to have big porches. This has allowed me to have seating on both. I have a dining set on my back porch. I custom-built the table that is on the back porch to fit the dimensions. If you have a porch that feels like it comes to a “dead end,” consider putting storage there. If you want to add a wow factor to your porch, consider building a bed swing. This is an oversized porch swing that is meant to fit a twin-size mattress! I built mine using predominantly leftover lumber from previous projects. Everyone in my house loves spending time on the bed swing!

Decorate Your Porch Using Textiles

Textiles on your porch can make or break how inviting and cozy it feels. If your porch isn’t decorated with any cloth, rug, or throw pillows, it can look empty and basic. In my original front porch design, I layered colorful throw pillows on the bed swing to make it inviting. I laid down a rug to cozy up the area where my kids would sit on the floor to play. Putting textiles outside does require maintenance. We bring the cushions, pillows, and such inside when there’s severe weather and over the winter. There are so many great choices for outdoor textile options that are UV resistant, water resistant, and more. For example, the carpet tile I recently installed is meant for outdoor applications. Adding in textiles softens your whole space and elevates the porch decor!

Plant Decorations

With any porch, you should decorate with plants. This is a space that’s meant to be a transition between indoor and outdoor, and plants just make sense! You might find, however, that when a porch roof shades the space 100% of the day, it’s hard to get any live plants to grow. Here I would recommend hanging planters that you can hang from eye screws in your porch’s header. I custom-made mine out of scrap wood, so the pots are easily removable. Another idea is to use faux plants. I am impressed by how realistic some faux plants are! My big red geraniums are so convincing. Don’t forget to do the landscaping around your porches as well (mine could use some work but, I’m getting there).

These porch decorating ideas have transformed these two spaces into features of my home that we enjoy so much! My front porch even got swanky screens, which you can learn about here. I hope this was inspiring for you and filled you with ideas to decorate your porch.

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Table of Contents

• Starting the Project
• Priming and Painting
• The Drawer System
• Countertops of the Cabinets
• Priming and Painting Pt. 2
• Finishing Touches
• Final Reveal

Starting this Project

This all started when I decided to revamp a slanted ceiling space into a primary closet. This project is going to add storage for my clothes, which is desperately needed. The wall that I built up is getting some insulation, I have some left over and am using it up on this project. Once I have that stapled onto the wall, I am installing drywall. Once my drywall is installed, I have to tape and mud it. In addition, I have to patch up a hole that was made from moving a light fixture. I decided to skim coat all of the plaster to make it less textured. After two skim coats, I am moving on to sanding.

Painting and Priming for the Closet Remodel With Kitchen Cabinet Storage

Now that my walls are all smooth, it is time to move on to painting and priming. I am priming the walls and the ceiling to seal the raw drywall. If you are ever putting on a paint and primer in one, assuming that it is going to adhere to raw materials, it will not work as well as priming first and then painting. Next, I am finishing up the trim around the door. Then, I am painting over the primer. I opened up and framed the doorway; you can find a more in-depth look at that here. The paint that I chose is way too peachy pink. I hate it. Because of this, I am mixing up something I like more. I am adding a little bit of black and quite a bit of white to the paint color to tone it. This color shift made all the difference!

Closet Remodel With Kitchen Cabinet Storage: The Drawer System

With the painting done, it is time to move on to the drawer system. I am moving kitchen cabinets into this space! When planning out the drawers I wanted to build, I found out that kitchen cabinets are about the same dimensions. The carpeting needs to be removed where the drawers are going to sit. I am cutting into both the carpet and the underlayment. Once the carpeting is gone, I am moving my drawers into place. I got five prefab cabinets from Home Depot to fit into this space. They are 24 inches wide and fit so well. I think this saved me a lot of time! Next, I am moving forward with leveling all of these cabinets, clamping them, and screwing the face frames together. I want to inspire you to think outside the box with this remodel. Kitchen cabinets have so many more uses than just kitchen storage. These cabinets are 21 inches deep and make the most out of the space I am working with!

The Top of the Cabinets

I am making the top of the cabinets from 3/4 inch plywood. I want them to look like stone without spending money on real stone. In addition to the 3/4 inch plywood sheet, I cut a 1/4 inch piece of wood to make the countertop look more realistic as stone usually comes in at 1 inch deep. To do this, I am using contact paper! A full tutorial on how I apply contact paper seamlessly can be found here!

Priming and Painting Part 2

Before I can apply contact paper or finish painting my drawers, I need to prime everything. I am using a mini roller to apply primer to the raw plywood on the top and the unfinished faces of the cabinets. In order to have a good finish with my paint, I am doing a light sanding over the faces of the drawers. Then, I am wiping them down with a tack cloth. This is to get rid of any fine dust. I am rolling on semi-gloss white cabinet paint. Each drawer and cabinet box got two coats of white paint.

Finishing Touches

After I finish priming and painting, I am installing a toekick. This is a piece of wood that I prepped ahead of time. It is just a 1 x 4. I am installing that along the bottom of the drawer boxes. Now it is time for hardware! I am using my handy hardware jig for this process. This jig gives the exact same spacing on every single drawer front. I am installing gold handles on these drawers! In addition, I am installing undermount strip lighting. This gives me soft and indirect lighting! I am finishing up this project with caulking and paint touchups.

Final Reveal of the Closet Remodel With Kitchen Cabinet Storage

This closet remodel with kitchen cabinet storage turned out better than I could have ever imagined! The drawers give me so much desperately needed space!

I hope you feel inspired to use something in a way that it may not be “made” for! Sometimes being a little creative opens doors for new projects that other people may not think of!

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