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Table of Contents

• Cutting the Wood
• Assembling the Frame
• Building Drawers
• Trying New Things
• Edge Finishing on the Drawer Boxes
• Painting and Priming
• Finishing Up!

Cutting the Wood for the Custom Storage Solution

My house is a story and a half, so there are slanted ceilings to work around, because of this I had to learn how to build a custom storage solution! These drawers would work anywhere you have a slanted ceiling! I am cutting 3/4 inch plywood to the shape of my ceiling slant for the body of the shelves. I am using a cut optimizer to plan the rest of my cuts. Click here to go to the website I am using!

To create the drawers that will pull out, I am cutting up two sheets of 1/2-inch plywood. I prefer to assemble drawers with a groove in the plywood for the base to create a drawer box that is super strong. The other pieces of plywood that I cut were for the bottom and backside of my frame, these got pocket holes drilled so I could attach the frame box together.

Assembling the Frame for the Custom Storage Solution

To hold my large plywood pieces tight together, I am using corner clamps. When the clamps were in place at the top, I screwed the bottom together using Kreg screws. Once the bottom piece of wood is screwed into place, I flip the drawers to screw on the back piece. I do not need a full top piece, but I do need to box in half of it. I am creating a shelf on the top part of these drawers. Fully assembled, my frame is 40 inches deep, 24 inches wide and 51 inches tall.

Building the Drawers to go in my Custom Storage Solution

Next, I am going to build drawers that go all the way up the frame. This is going to give me the storage space I am looking for! Because these drawers are 37 inches deep, each one will have a divider to add more functionality. If you want an in-depth tutorial on how I am building these drawers, click here! When building the drawers, using spacers makes everything easier! I build the box as I go, measuring the distance between the drawer box sides when they are screwed to the slider hardware. I do this before cutting the remaining pieces for my drawer box. Doing it this way means that I am not trying to manage a big bulky box when installing the slides. This is especially handy for building these very deep and large drawers. Most importantly, it ensures that my slide hardware is always perfectly placed.

Trying New Things!

Originally, when I began building this, I planned to do full overlay drawer fronts and skip the face frame. However, I have never tried inset drawers. I thought this would be the perfect project to practice them! So, I decided to build a skinny face frame. This is preventing me from having to move all the drawers that I had just finished further back. When gluing the frame, I spread on a layer of glue, then let it dry enough to get tacky, then spread a second layer to have good adhesion. I am doing this because when you are gluing the edge of plywood the glue gets absorbed quickly. Gluing twice ensures that you have enough product. I am shooting brad nails into the face frame to hold it tight while the glue dries.

Edge Finishing on the Drawer Boxes

For the edges of plywood in my drawer boxes, I did not want to use edgebanding. I thought it would be a pain on such a skinny piece of 1/2-inch plywood. I devised a plan to water down wood filler and spread it across the top edge. This hides the plywood layers! When the filler is dry, I am sanding it all smooth with sandpaper. Where I am using edgebanding is on the 3/4 inch plywood drawer fronts. This is a tedious process that I do not enjoy, but I do like the way it looks.

Painting and Primer

Now that my entire custom storage solution is put together, it is time to prime. Once the prime is dry, I am going in with spray paint. You might be surprised I am going in with spraypaint rather than rolling on paint, here’s why; the shinier the sheen, the harder it is to get an even finish. So, for gloss, spraying is best! I also like spray paint for its durability.

Finishing the Custom Storage Solution

Once the paint is dried, I am ready to install the drawer fronts to the custom storage solution build! I was nervous to do inset drawers because I have heard that they are tricky. I kind of eyeballed the spacing with about an eigth of an inch gap around the whole drawer front. Then, I am using my cabinet hardware jig to mount the pulls. The pull I am using is 5 inches and is in the color champagne bronze.

I love the way this custom storage solution turned out! It is so perfect for my daughter Lily’s new room!

If you love this custom storage solution and want to see another storage space that I have built, click here!

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Table of Contents

• Cutting and Prepping the Wood
• Wall Prep Work
• DIY Wood Accent Wall Installation
• Final Touches

Preparing the Wood for the DIY Wood Accent Wall

I started with three sheets of 1/8-inch thick plywood. I ripped these down to be six inches wide on my table saw. If you do not have a table saw, this would be just as easy to do on a piece of foam on the ground with a circular saw and a guide. Once all of the planks have been cut down, my daughter and I are whitewashing them all. This whole wall is her design idea, I love that she is showing interest in DIY and the creation of her new room! I am wiping off all of the excess paint with a cloth while we whitewash. After we are done whitewashing, I am sealing the planks. This is easiest to do before installation. I am putting one layer of water-based polyurethane.

Once the polyurethane is dry, I sand all of the plank and its edges to make it nice and smooth. Once completely smooth, I go over it with a second coat of polyurethane. This gives each plank a satin sheen and a very durable finish. When the finishing was done, I laid them all in the sunshine to dry!

Getting the Wall Ready For Installation

In the room we are renovating, there was already a wall treatment of Wayne Scotting. The walls are plaster and lath. I had no clue that when we removed the existing wall treatment, there would be a terrible surprise. Behind the treatment, the wall was covered in black stuff. What this is remains a mystery. I tested it for mold and asbestos and both tests came back negative. Because I do not know what this is, I feel the most comfortable removing it.

To do this, I am starting by taping off the HVAC so particles do not get into my central system. Then, I am spraying the parts I am removing with water. I am wearing PPE while doing this just to be safe. Once the wall is damp enough, I started to remove the plaster bit by bit. This is SO tedious. It took me several hours to remove the part that needed removal, but it was for the best and gave me peace of mind.

Installation of the DIY Wood Accent Wall

I am starting the installation of this DIY accent wall with my laser level! I am starting by having it throw a vertical line on the wall so I can install my stretchers. These are vertical pieces of wood that I am adding to the wall where I want my wood plank seams to land. My seams are going to be symmetrical, but I cannot nail them into the wall in its current condition. Because I am lifting all of the planks away from the wall, I am also adding wood blocking. This is where I want to hang the headboard in the future.

Now, it is time to install the planks! At first I thought that I could install the planks right up against the ceiling, but my laser level told me that the ceiling is not level! It is off by an entire inch. I ended up having to bring my horizontal laser level down, measuring from it, and start the planks a little bit lower. Then, I cut the ceiling plank at an angle to fit where the ceiling is not level. Because these planks are hollow behind them, they needed more support than I anticipated. Because of this, as I was installing them they were bowing, and I had to add another piece of stretcher through the center. To install these planks I am starting by using a construction adhesive on my stretcher. Then, I installed the wood plank I cut to 24 inches first by shooting brad nails into the stretchers. Then I do the same on the longer plank to finish the row!

Adding the Final Touches

To get around obstacles on my wall, like outlets and vents, I am using my oscillating multitool. First, I am marking where the obstacles are. Then, I go in VERY carefully with my oscillating multitool because my material is so thin. Once everything was cut out, I installed the planks as normal. I am putting baseboards here, but only where the bed frame is not going to be pushed up against the DIY wood accent wall. On the edges where the wood planks meet the other two walls, I was able to run a bead of clear paintable caulk. When it cured, I ran a tape line, painted, and removed the tape immediately for a very crisp edge.

I love the way this DIY wood accent wall turned out! The variation of color on the planks adds so much warmth and visual interest to the room. My daughter loves it so much which is the most important! If you liked this interior upgrade DIY and want to see more, my post on how to lay self leveling concrete is a great place to start!

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Table of Contents

• Preparations
• Day 1: Demo Day
• Day 2: Wall Treatment
• Day 3: Caulking
• Day 4: Painting
• Day 5: Final Touch-ups
• The Final Results!

Preparing for the DIY Nursery Makeover Project

Dan and Chelsea live 80 miles away from us, so I spent 5 hours packing my car with tools and everything I needed to stay with them and complete the work. I’m trying to transform this whole space in only one week, so I did some of the building beforehand.

I start by assembling 1x2s that I cut and primed into a think display shelf for one of the walls. I plan to put picture books on this so that you can see the front covers. To build the back of this display, I am gluing and nailing on 1/2″ plywood. In addition, I am projecting the baby’s name on a piece of 1/2-inch plywood to trace for a name cut-out. I was the only person who knew the baby’s name before she was born, and it was so that I could make this! This part of the project took me 4 hours. I had to carefully cut the thin, loopy text out with my jigsaw and a scrolling blade. I know I could have bought a name cut-out online, but it is impossible to order one as large as I wanted. It also means more that I made it myself! When the cutting was done, I sanded each letter and spray-painted the name.

Day 1: Demolition of the Room

Once I completed all of the prep work at my house, it was down to Dan and Chelsea’s house. The first thing I am doing is demolition. I ran into a problem almost immediately, the person who installed the chair rail had used construction adhesive. This means that removing the trim work ripped the wall’s paper, and I am going to have lots of annoying drywall repairs to complete. I recommend never using glue; nails are enough! I am also scraping the popcorn ceiling texture off, so I am removing the light fixture and covering the carpet with plastic. Scraping a textured ceiling is quite easy and very satisfying. This one has never been painted, so it scraped off without any issues.

After cleaning up the mess from scraping the ceiling, I have to wipe down the ceiling and walls because there is so much dust. Once they are clean, I will roll primer on the exposed raw drywall on the ceiling. If I did not prime the wall, the primer would not adhere and I might have issues. While I am waiting for my primer to dry, I am applying the first coat of all-purpose joint compound to the damaged part of my drywall. To finish off day one, I am rolling a coat of white paint on the ceiling and upper third of the wall and applying a second coat of joint compound.

Day 2: Board and Batten Wall Treatment

I am starting day two with sanding the joint compound; it dried overnight. Once it is sanded, I am priming over it to prevent flashing. My big project for day three is the board and batten wall treatment. Chelsea and I had looked at lots of Pinterest inspiration when planning this design together, and she loved the modern style of board and batten. I am doing a faux treatment where the battens are just nailed on the wall, no boards required. A lot of the inspirational photos we looked at have this wall treatment as one wall behind the crib, but I am going big and doing the WHOLE ROOM! If you want a more in-depth tutorial on how I did this wall treatment, there is a blog post here! Installing this wall treatment took most of day two, but it was so worth it. The last thing I am doing for day two is smearing wood filled in my face seams so it will dry overnight.

Day 3: Caulking

I am sanding the wood filler and beginning to caulk on day three. My goal for day three was to get paint on the wall treatment, but that did not happen. Caulking took SO long! Three hours and two and a half tubes of caulk later, I finished caulking. I was not happy about this. I ran out of caulk and had to go to Home Depot to get more; this set me back for day three. The only other thing I got done was installing the new light fixture. I love this woven fixture; it casts a beautiful shadow on the ceiling!

Day 4: Painting

I spent all of day four painting. The color that I am putting on the wall is very calming and is called Pigeon Gray by Dunn-Edwards. I love that it is neutral enough to transition with this room into whatever it might become. It does not scream nursery.

Day 5: Insalls and Final Touch-Ups

Day five was all about adding the final details to the room! I patched some imperfections that showed through the first coat of paint. Then, I am sanding, priming, and painting over the patches. I am adding cute peg hooks to the top rail of the board and the batten design. Then, I am rolling a coat of fresh white paint on the entry door, window trim, and closet doors. I am also swapping out the closet door knobs for cuter ones. My go-to curtain rod is also being hung up; I am hanging heavy blackout curtains on this. They are a pretty sage color. Dan helped me tape fairy lights to the name cut-out so it would be backlit. I am adding a couple of little blocks of wood that are the same thickness as the battens to support the name hovering off the wall. To attach the name, I am using short brad nails. Now that all the final details are added, it is time to surprise Chelsea!

Final Result of the DIY Nursery Makeover Project

Creating this room was truly a labor of love. I love using my growing skillset to show appreciation and support for the ones in my life that mean the most. Chelsea is so glad to have this calming, comfortable, and curated space to bring her first baby home to. Every inch of this room was touched, from the ceiling to the floor. I am so pleased with how everything turned out! I hope you loved this DIY nursery makeover project and that it inspired you to give your home improvement talents to those you love.

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Table of Contents

• Placing Panels of Wallpaper
  • The wallpaper I used!
• Cleaning Up the Edges
• Installing Crown Molding
• Installing the Light Fixture
  • The chandelier I installed!
• Finishing Touches and the Final Product

Placing the Panels of Wallpaper

I am using this cool galactic scene peel-and-stick wallpaper to create this galaxy ceiling. The dimensions of the wallpaper are not big enough to cover the entire ceiling, but I decided to add some molding around the edges and it will look just fine. Installing this is an extremely difficult process, getting all the seams to line up would be easier on a wall. When I get to the panel that has to go around the wiring for the light, I cut a hole so the wire can pop through. Many of my seams ended up not being hidden enough, so I had to pull the sticker off and replace it multiple times. When I got my husband’s help the project got much easier, I would recommend doing this project with two adults. The best way that I found to have a crease and bubble-free finish is to use a towel to press the sticker down.

Even though this wallpaper installation has been very stressful and difficult, I think it was worth it! I wanted to give my daughter her dream bedroom and this ceiling definitely made that dream come true.

Cleaning up the Edges of the Ceiling Design

Once all of the panels were placed I went in with a little Xacto knife to cut off the label from the one end of the sticker. The side that the sticker is on is the side that I have the most space between the sticker and the wall, so I have to be very precise. I do not want to take off more of the image than I have to.

Crown Molding Installation

To install crown molding I have to install blocking behind where I will be installing the molding. I am doing this on my table stall, ripping furring strips down to an inch and a quarter with my Grr-Ripper. Once my blocking is installed I have to install the crown molding. This was much more difficult than I anticipated. I have to angle the molding steeper than a 45-degree angle. This is so I get it to cover enough of the mural so the plaster ceiling is not visible.

Light Fixture for the Glow-in-the-Dark Girl’s Galaxy Bedroom

To install the light fixture, I start with my Xacto knife. I cut my sticker wallpaper to a large enough hole so I can access the light receptacle. After I have the hole cut to size it is time to install the light fixture. I chose this amazing chandelier! I think that this chandelier looks like a sunburst and it goes so well with the galaxy ceiling.

Finishing Touches

As a finishing touch, I am going to add glow-in-the-dark paint. I am painting this over some of the major stars in the mural to liven it up, even when it is dark! This ceiling is such a showstopper and my daughter loves it! If you loved this room transformation and want to see more, start on my bedroom makeover!

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My best friend is expecting her first baby and asked me to turn a room in her house into a nursery. I decided to install a board and batten wall treatment around the entire room to elevate the space. Here are my tips and tricks on how to do a DIY board and batten wall treatment without breaking the bank:

1. Be Sure to Install the Baseboards Perfectly Level.

• It is so important to install the baseboards perfectly level. This does not necessarily mean that they are flush with the floor, use your level to see if the baseboards are level. You do this to make sure that you can cut all of the battens the same hight!

2. Install the Board and Batten Wall Treatment with Nails, Never Adhesive.

• The previous wall treatment in the room that I put up board and batten wall treatment in had been put up with adhesive and it caused so much damage to the drywall. Nails are enough, find the studs where you can, but if you cannot find a stud just put your nails in at criss crossing angles.

3. Use a board and batten calculator.

• Do not try to do all this math in your head! It is complicated math, the thickness of each batten has to be accounted for. Also, each wall is going to be a slightly different width. If you are doing board and batten wall treatment across an entire room like I am, it is very unlikely that your spacer will be the exact same size across each wall. Using a board and batten calculator will help you figure out how to get it close and trick the eye.

4. Plan around Obstacles.

• You want to try your best to plan around obstacles like vents and outlets. For instance, on one of my walls, I planned out the spacing so that a batten lined up perfectly against my window framing and left space for the outlet. If you cannot plan around obstacles there are different methods to building around them. Some people carry their batten around, but when I had to go around an outlet I just cut the batten with my jigsaw to go around the outlet.

5. Use a Laser Level if you Have One.

• If you have one, use a laser level! This makes the entire project easier, especially on the top board. You want to make sure that the top board is level because it is the most visible to the naked eye.

6. Plan Seams Over Battens and Cut Them at an Angle.

• If you must have a seam, make sure it lands over one of the battens and that you cut it at an angle. You want to cut it at an angle so the line is as skinny as possible. Some of my trim was slightly different thicknesses, so I am using a spacer to get everything flush.

7. Use Wood Filler on the Face of the Boards and Caulk in the Corners.

• The face seams of the battens should be filled with wood filler. When the wood filler is dry, sand it down to be totally flush. In the corner seams apply latex caulk. I went through two tubes of caulk in the room I was putting the board and batten wall treatment in. This took me four hours, but is so worth it for the result.

8. Install Backer Rod Behind Any Large Gaps Before Caulking.

• The trim that I added spacers behind had a larger gap, so my tip is to fill that with backer rod before caulking. This will help stabilize and prevent cracking.

9. Paint Using a Mini Roller

• Wall treatments take extra effort to paint. If you are like me and unwilling to tape off the whole room to spray, my best tip is to use a 4-inch mini paint roller. I was able to get all of the seams of this wall treatment without using a paintbrush.

10. Use a Drywall Knife to Paint Baseboards Against Carpet.

• Because I did not use a paintbrush at all in the painting of this board and batten wall treatment, I used a drywall knife to push down and protect the carpet while painting the basebaords.

This board and batten wall treatment was a lot of work, but it was so worth it to DIY. Use my tips and tricks to learn how you can create your own board and batten wall treatment without breaking the bank!

If you liked this interior upgrade DIY and want to see more, my post on how to lay self leveling concrete is a great place to start!

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This post may contain affiliate links or sponsored content. For full disclosures and practices, please visit my policy page.

Table of Contents

• Demolition
• Painting
• Adding New Flooring
• The Inspiration for this Bedroom
• Slat Wall Installation
• Final Touches and Final Reveal

Demolition for the Bedroom Makeover

To start, I removed the carpet, staples, and tack strips that came with it. I also took the baseboards off to refinish them, this is going to make it easier for me to paint. The dusty ceiling fan came down in order to scrape the ceiling texture. I also had to scrape this “popcorn” texture off of the closet walls. To do this I spray the texture with warm water and then scrape it off with an 8-inch metal drywall knife. If you would like a more detailed explanation of how to scrape popcorn texture there is a post about it here. After all this demolition, we are left with a fresh slate to start the bedroom makeover! 

Painting the Walls

When the demolition is finished and everything is cleaned up, I begin painting. I use multiple coats of paint on the ceiling, walls, and inside the closet. I painted until everything was a beautiful warm white. One of the ways I am saving money on this project is by using leftover paint, you can get it from your local household hazardous waste site, but I have enough left over from other remodeling projects to complete this room.

Flooring for the Bedroom Makeover

For the flooring, I am using leftover flooring from other renovations in the lake house. The flooring is laminate, so it is pretty cost-effective overall. If you want a more detailed tutorial on how to lay laminate flooring click here. 

Bedroom Makeover Inspiration

The inspiration for this bedroom makeover comes from the warm gray sheets for the bed and the antique furniture. One of the main pieces is an old wood secretary desk that I am refurbishing. I sand out blemishes, fix a broken leg and drawer slides, and match the original stain color to bring this back to life. Other furniture I am featuring in the room are two end tables. I am also refinishing these to a maroon with stained wood tops that match the antique secretary.  

Slat Wall Mid-Century Modern Design

At this point, the walls in this room are looking pretty boring just painted white. To make them more exciting I am creating a slat wall design. This speaks to the fact the house was built in 1957 and is a mid-century home. I bought 10-foot-long and 8-foot-long 1x4s and ripped these on my table saw to a little bit wider than an inch each. Then I sand them all down, pre-condition, and stain them. I am staining them with American Walnut, which transforms pine into a walnut look alike. When the three coats of stain were dry, I put satin polyurethane over them to protect them.  

Slat Wall Installation

To install the slat wall design I am using a laser level, but you can use a regular 4-foot or 6-foot level. The first slat being straight is the most important, from there you can use a spacer to build off of it. I am using a nail gun with 18 gauge brad nails about an inch and a half long shooting them in at crisscrossing angles. If you shoot your nails in straight the slats can pull right out of the drywall. My slat design goes onto the ceiling; to install these 10 foot long slats alone I put up a temporary ledge. I put one end of my slat on this ledge board then lift the other side and put my nails in.  

Finishing Touches for the Bedroom Makeover

I bought and installed curtains from Amazon, they match the sheets from Brooklinen perfectly. In addition, I also decided to lay a neutral rug from Ruggable. I got a bed that matches the wood colors in the room very well, so it compliments the other furniture. The mattress I purchased is a queen-sized mattress from Amazon as well, it was very affordable! I used a lot of thrifted pieces to style this bedroom makeover including paintings and a vintage birdcage. Overall this room went from dirty and boring to warm and vintage with this bedroom makeover.

I hope you love this vintage modern bedroom makeover! This entire project took me about a month to complete and the room did a complete 180!

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It is hard to believe this shell of a room was being used by our home’s previous owners. The OSB plywood walls made me feel unsettled and anxious every time I went in the room.

We began removing the OSB, but found that task very difficult. Instead we ended up drywalling over it. Obviously new electrical outlets and light fixtures were just cut out before the drywall was hung.

I did do all the taping, mudding, sanding, finishing, priming, and painting of the drywall. It was a month from Hell. But, it sure feels good to have it done!

This video I recap how I decorated the room and made it the most functional for our family. Don’t forget to subscribe to my Youtube Channel to catch my weekly videos.

The point where we were finally able to move the kids in this space and have furniture set up was really wonderful. Before then we didn’t even get to have a bedroom – we just slept on a mattress on the floor in a main area. Since the kids now have a finished room, we get to enjoy our own master bedroom, too!

I hope you’ll pin some of these colorful images and decor ideas for a colorful kids bedroom!

Thanks for reading! Stay tuned for more big renovation updates, before and afters, and craft inspiration from me. If you loved this room transformation and want to see more, start on my bedroom makeover!

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This is what the bedroom looked like when we moved in. The crown molding along the top of the wall was backlit (oh joy). Plus it was mounted six inches below the ceiling in some places because the ceiling is curved. Needless to say, that was the first thing removed.

The other side of the room featured a wood-wrapped chimney and old trim/doors that didn’t match. I overviewed everything in the video if you’re too lazy to scroll down. It’s okay, I won’t judge.

The Master List

It might be impossible to list every single thing I changed in this room, but I’ll do my best.

• Remove crown molding and backlit LED strips
• Washed down all the walls and blinds
• Painted walls semi-gloss white
• Painted ceiling flat white
• Replaced old oak trim around the windows with 1″ x 4″ pine lumber I primed and painted semi-gloss white
• Replaced door with two panel white door and matte black door knob
• Installed the 1″ x 4″ pine lumber trim around the door jambs
• Caulked all the trim
• Filled nail holes and imperfections in the trim with joint compound, then sanded smooth.
• Painted over all the trim in the room with one last coat of semi-gloss white.

And at this point, I was finally done making the walls look good…

• White-washed the chimney with white wood stain
• Replaced light fixture with cream drum shade
• Refinished the drawers of this mid-century modern dresser set
• Built frame for my full size mirror
• Painted a watercolor abstract art piece for above the bed

• Assembled the beautiful blue upholstered bed
• Hung 9 ft of white 98″ long curtains with a conduit curtain rod
• Organized the closet by hanging a rod and adding a second dresser. Psst… if you want to see inside the closet and more behind the scenes footage of my room makeover, support me on Patreon.
• Added a few decor pieces (plants + lamp) so the room stayed very minimal
• Made my bed!

I’m pretty sure now it’s time to bombard you with photos from every angle of all my hard work!

Pin My Minimalist Master Bedroom Makeover

The white trim throughout really makes a big difference in how modern your house looks! I hope you’ll pin my clever hack of using 1″ x 4″ lumber to save at least HALF on changing molding in your house.

Thank you for visiting our minimalist master bedroom makeover. This post has a lot of pin-worthy content, so spread the love before you leave.

Also, I probably don’t need to remind you, but this is what our master bedroom looked like in our last house. I’ve come a long way, friends. If you loved this room transformation and want to see more, start on my bedroom makeover!

Featured on Decor Home Ideas!

Coming up soon…the kitchen!

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Step 1: Make Organizers For the Top Shelf

If you are not ready to splurge for custom closet organizers, make your own for just pennies! I upcycled a bunch of diaper boxes to organize the top shelf of our entryway closet. The boxes hold all my children’s little outdoor gear: mittens, shoes, hats, scarves, etc. All you need is an old box, fabric, and a hot glue gun. Find out how to make these organizers for your closet here.

You can also watch the video tutorial on Hometalk TV’s facebook page here.

Step 2: Put Drawers on The Floor

The floor of the closet often becomes a pile of clothes or stuff, but not if it is organized. Use cubbies, drawers, or a short dresser on the floor of your closet to force your stuff to be organized. In our master closet, I placed a laundry basket alongside two cubby drawers which hold small clothing items for my husband and me.

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Step 3: Fit It All In With Clever Storage

At one point, I had to fit two children’s full wardrobes in one small closet in our home’s nursery. I did this by utilizing a hanging shoe organizer for their pants and non-hanging clothes. Then I hung a second hanging area across with a tension rod. The hanging bag is laundry.

I do this today in our Dr. Seuss room for my two oldest children who share a closet. I do not use shoe organizers, but those plastic cubby drawers instead. These options are clever ways to utilize the space and store more without investing in custom fit closet organizers.
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Organize Your Closet

A lot of our home’s closets are pretty stuffed, but that’s because we live in a home with minimal storage space. If you have more closet space than me, using these principles to organize your closet will produce even better results! Let me know other ways you make the most of your closet space. Also–would you ever consider closets without doors in your home?

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Giving the Walls a New Color

In addition to the blue walls, all of her furniture was cramped into one corner of the room. 

The fourth wall of the room has the closet and vanity along it. 

The first thing we are doing in this teenage girl’s bedroom makeover is getting to work on painting. I am mixing up a dark gray for a feature wall, and then we will use light silver for the other three walls. 

Toning down that bright blue really makes a difference. The room feels much calmer and more restful after the paint went on.

Adding Shelving 

Next, we are hanging shelves above her bed. The items on the shelves that are the coral color were painted by us to match the new bedspread she bought. Kateri cut the DREAM sign out of wood in shop class at school.

The shelves are hung centered on the dark gray feature wall and just above the bed.

We arranged the bed in the center of the feature wall so that it is the focal point and she can get out of bed on either side. Her end table is next to it for drinks and the alarm clock. Along the other wall, we moved the vanity.

This is what you see when you walk into the room.

This teenage girls bedroom makeover was really inexpensive; the only thing that was purchased were the shelves and bedding.

Last week I shared the tutorial for these easy to make pallet wood arrows that I gave Kateri. Now with her new room design, they are hung on the empty wall by her closet.

I did add a few touches to stage Kateri’s room, like the faux fur rug on her simple folding chair. That vanity needed a little something luxurious.

My efforts were felt throughout the room and I hope Kateri really loves the end result.

Feel free to pin and share if you liked what you saw!

Teenage Girls Bedroom Makeover

Thanks for reading today! See you next week when I share an easy 4th of July craft you can make with your kids!

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