Table of Contents

• Prepping the Wood
• Adding Framing to the Cabinet
• Drywalling
• Building the Inside of the Cabinet
• Adding a Shelf
• Priming and Painting
• Building a Cabinet Door
• Sanding and Staining
• Assembling the Face Frame
• Installing the Face Frame
• Finishing Up!

Preparing the Wood to Build a Bathroom Cabinet

This project is not going to cost me all that much money because I am using a lot of leftover materials. I am going to drill some kreg jig holes into the framing. These are the center supports for the entire cabinet. Then, I am going to connect them all together, forcing them against my cement driveway so that everything lines up. The middle support piece is exactly 4-feet up the wall, I did typical measurements for framing. As I was framing this up I kept checking my square to make sure everything lined up nicely.

I am going to be framing up a wall on one side to determine the depth and width of this cabinet. It will look like it is meant to be in the corner of the bathroom, not added later. It is going to be about 22 inches deep and 21 inches wide. Because of this, I am adding a second stud because studs are supposed to run every 16 inches to support the drywall.

Adding the Framing to the Bathroom Cabinet

Bringing the framing of the cabinet into the bathroom was not easy. Learning how to build a bathroo cabinet has been harder than anticipated! It is a small space, so it was a little difficult. The frame was a tight fit, so I hammered it into place. I am screwing the framing for the wall I am adding to the existing wall framing. For the floor, I am also screwing it in.

Drywalling the Bathroom Cabinet

Once the framing is in, I am replacing the drywall. I am using a combination of drywall that I took down and leftover scraps from other drywall projects I have done. I had just enough to get both the new wall and the little sidewall next to the doorway covered. Next, I have to tape and mud the drywall. This is my least favorite part, every time I do drywall I swear I am going to hire it out but then end up doing it myself!

Building the Inside of the Cabinet

For the inside of the closet, I am using plywood instead of drywall. The plywood was such a tight fit when I tried to put one full sheet in, I realize I have to cut it into two smaller pieces. I cut the two pieces of wood where the shelf will be to cover the seam. Once it is cut properly, I am screwing the plywood into place. For the side walls of the closet, I sliced down 1/2-inch thick plywood. I am nailing these into place. I only screwed the back plywood in so there would be added support for the shelf.

Building and Installing the Shelf

Once the inside of the closet is complete, I am going to drill pocket holes into the piece of plywood that will be my shelf. This piece of plywood is 3/4-inch thick and sanded on both sides. I am pre-drilling a couple of holes into the plywood. These will go into the back of the closet, a couple into the sides, and a few in the front that will go into the face frame. I knocked the piece of plywood into place inside the closet and got it as level as I could. This shelf is not covered with an edge band because it will be covered with the face frame. I cut a smaller second shelf to go above the first shelf. The edge is covered with an edge band because the face frame will not cover it.

Priming and Painting

Once my shelves were in place it was time to prime and paint. I am using a 4-inch mini foam roller to prime the inside of the cabinet. I did not use a paintbrush in the seams because I was not doing a super precise job of priming. When the primer is fully dry I am going in with 220-grit sandpaper wrapped around a little 2×4 block. I did this to sand everything smooth before going in with my paint. Then, I wiped any sawdust or residue off with a damp rag.

Before I can paint I need to fix the gaps in the ceiling. I cut little strips of pine and primed them, then used a heavy-duty adhesive to adhere them to the ceiling. Once those were in place and the adhesive was dry I could go in with caulk. When the caulk dries it will finally be time for paint.

Time to paint! I started by using a polyester bristle brush in all of the seams first to prevent drips. Then, I am going in with a big roller and rolling paint all over the inside of the cabinet. I chose to use the same color inside the cabinet that I used on the walls of the bathroom.

Building the Exterior Door for the Cabinet

I am using 3/4-inch. plywood for the doors as well, I am ripping it on my table saw so the edges are a 30-degree bevel. It was my assumption that this detail would make them look prettier. I am going to rip the other side in the other direction to get a bevel on every side.

To create the face frame of the closet I am using select pine. I ripped some of them thinner, the side that is covering the framed wall is kept at 3 1/2 inches wide whereas the other ones are 2 1/4 inches wide. I drilled a bunch of pocket holes, used my clamps to hold everything in place, then added screws to hold the frame together. Because the door is made of plywood, the beveled edge looks kind of ugly. I am using Pure Edge edge banding to cover it. This irons on very quickly and looks much better.

Sanding and Staining

Once the glue from the edge banding is dry, it is time to sand. This sanding took hours! I sanded the face frame, the doors, and every edge. I am sanding the edges so that they would be a little bit softer to the touch. Once everything is sanded I am wiping it off with a cloth and putting polyurethane on it. This is being applied with a fine polyester bristle brush. I love the color that came out with just one coat of polyurethane on the face frame, but when I put it on the doors it did not look as good. I am mixing up a custom wash for the doors and painting it on. It looks so much better.

Assembling the Face of the Bathroom Cabinet

To assemble this cabinet I am beginning on the horizontal space of my floor. This is going to make it so much easier to get things lined up and pre-drilled. I am lining up where I want my hinges to be and set the doors on top of them. Once everything is in place, I use a pencil to mark where I need to pre-drill. The hinges I am using match the ones that are on the vanity in the bathroom. I am adding a little piece of wood behind every hinge to make it conducive to the space.

Installing the Face Frame

The first thing I am doing is clamping the frame into place. Once it is clamped into place I am screwing directly into the wall stud. Then, I am adding in more screws where I pre-drilled. For the edge of the cabinet, I am taking 1-1/2 inch by 1-1/2 inch wooden outside corner trim piece and nailing that into place. This ended up being perfectly flush with the wall and it looked so good! In order to fill all of my holes I am using drywall joint compound and wood filler. To the face frame off I am sanding, adding another layer of polyurethane, and caulking.

Hanging the Doors

Once I have installed the hardware on the door it is time to hang them on the face frame. To hang the doors I am lining them up with the face frame and putting tiny little screws through the hinges. I pre-drilled holes into the face frame so I would know exactly where to put the hinges. To add more storage space I am hanging a hook on the inside of this cabinet!

I love how this closet turned out! It has added so much storage and versatility to this small bathroom!

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Table of Contents

• Facing Problems Right off the Bat
• Cleaning
• Painting
• Flooring on a Budget
• Ceiling Upgrade
• New Vanity Install
• Final Touches
• Before and Afters

Problems Right Away

When I removed the fixtures on the tub I found that the tub drain was so corroded the crossbars were missing. Because of this, the removal was almost impossible. I tried to cut a notch into the metal where a prybar could go. This prybar will hopefully tension in the drain and allow me to unscrew and pull it out. Even with the leverage of locking pliers on the prybar, the drain would not come out, so unfortunately we had to call a plumber. The plumber could not remove the drain without cracking the PVC, so he just took out all of the old piping and replaced it with new. This was a huge blow to the budget.

Cleaning the Tub and Floors

This bathroom is in the basement of my friend’s home, we are working on a tight budget so we are doing this bathroom DIY style! Rather than getting a new tub surround, we are trying to resurrect the current one which is very mildewy. My friend spent hours scrubbing the tub. It was fastest to sand the fiberglass surround with 400 grit sandpaper to get the mildew and stains off. The floor is textured, so she can not sand it. Instead, she tried using bleach, barkeeper’s friend, and pink stuff, but none of this worked. She was able to get the floor clean using a metal scrubby and elbow grease. After everything was clean, I applied polish to the surround to reseal the porous fiberglass to make the tub easier to clean in the future.

Painting

This bathroom started as a dark and dirty brown color. We chose to lighten it up with a warm white color. We want to make this small space look bigger and because it is windowless, a light color will brighten it up. It took three coats of paint to cover the brown that was there.

Flooring for a Budget Bathroom Remodel

Once the floor and tub are clean and the walls are painted, it is time to lay flooring. I picked up LVT click-together flooring on clearance to save money. Flooring the entire bathroom only cost $135! Since it is made of plastic I can cut the tricky parts on my scroll saw. The 12 x 24-inch dimensions make it look like real tile and I laid it so that the seams were staggered at exactly the center to make it even more convincing. I laid this new flooring directly over the linoleum that was there before. This was possible because the new flooring did not require underlayment and the door thresholds had space. For a more in-depth explanation on how to install flooring click here. After the floor was installed, I installed the new toilet which we got on clearance for $140.

Upgrading the Ceiling

Something has to be done with this outdated acoustic ceiling. The whole home’s plumbing runs through here, so we decided that it is important to still be accessible. Because of this, I have to hunt for a better, and more attractive, drop ceiling tile. To begin the ceiling upgrade I am rolling the grin that the tiles sit on with a couple of coats of black paint. We ordered beautiful new drop ceiling tiles that have detailed ridges in a dramatic black color. They are made from very thin PVC, so thin that you can cut them with just scissors! The entire ceiling cost us $154.

New Vanity Mirror Install

We found a budget-friendly new vanity light with reeded glass that my friend loved. I also installed a new LED mirror above the vanity. It was decided that we would plug the mirror in rather than hardwire it. I also installed new faucets in matte black. The shower system cost $175 and the faucet cost $52. Thankfully there are no more plumbing issues and I can install the shower DIY.

Budget Bathroom Finishing Touches

I taught my friend how to use my nail gun and she put back all of the trim. We wanted to keep the honey oak because the doors, vanity, and trim work all match throughout the entire house. I made a painting for the room and I am so happy that my friend loved it. It brought the whole room together! Without the plumber’s bill of $480 I would have been under budget on this project! The total for everything including paint, accessories, shower curtain and rod, and plumber came to $1326.

Before and After

I am proud of how much my friend and I accomplished together, how I inspired her to DIY and learn new skills, and how budget-friendly this space is. If you love this bathroom remodel and want to see more, check out the final reveal of the bathroom in my house!

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Table of Contents

• Demo and Plumbing
• New Base for the Shower Walls
• Waterproofing the Walls
• Using Musselbound
• How to Tile a Shower

Demolition and Plumbing

To begin this project I demolish the walls down to the studs. Once the walls are completely demolished I call my plumber. He came and extended my plumbing that went to my tub. He brought the plumbing up the wall to create a shower system as well. The next step in my demolition was to remove and replace the old insulation and the old window.

New Base for the Shower Walls

After the insulation and window have been replaced I am putting up new drywall. When my drywall is all in place it is time to caulk the seams. I am choosing to do this instead of drywall mud because I need it to be not water permeable. Using caulk does require some precision. My drywall seams have to be within an eighth of an inch apart for the caulking method to work.

Waterproofing the Walls

The caulk was the first step in waterproofing the base of the shower walls. The next step in waterproofing is RedGard. This is a waterproofing membrane that you roll onto the drywall. To apply this you must use thin layers. I am doing three layers to make sure I have a built-up and continuous membrane across all of the drywall. I start by using a brush to apply the RedGard to the corners and any edges like the ceiling. Then, I used a roller to do the rest of the wall. I am also going to roll this onto the wall beyond where the tile will be because this will protect an area where water can also be sprayed on.

How to Tile a Shower Using Musselbound

For this project, I am not using cement board to tile the shower, instead, I am using an innovative new product called Musslebound. This is essentially a waterproof sticker that is highly adhesive and you stick your tiles directly to it. Before applying Musslebound to the wall it has to be completely dry and completely flat.

To apply this to the wall, stick the adhesive to the top of the shower wall, then begin rolling downwards. You have to push the adhesive to the wall as you are unrolling it, I am using a weighted roller, you have to push hard to make sure it sticks well. You can pull it up before completely sticking it down to adjust the mat and make sure it is flat. To cut the Musslebound around the shower lines, I cut an X and then popped it over. When I get to my window opening I am cutting and wrapping the Musslebound around that as well.

How to Tile a Shower

I have never tiled before, so that means I had to buy myself a wet saw to cut the tile! Before I do anything I do a lot of pre-planning as to how I am going to lay my tiles. This is important because the margin for error is very small when using Musslebound. I am cutting all of my tiles very carefully and lining them up with my laser level to make sure that they will all be straight. I do all of this without removing the liner from the Musslebound so I can mark and measure without permanently placing the tiles.

To make sure that the tiles adhere to the Musslebound I dried them off with a towel and put them out in the sun. When I remove the liner from the Musslebound, I apply seam tape up all of the seams so everything is continuously sticky. My tiles are being laid in a vertical staggered short-side pattern. I begin to lay my tiles by simply sticking them to the Musslebound with tile spacers in between every edge of the tile, the spacer I am using is 332. When I am placing the tiles I hold them for a few seconds to press them against the Musslebound to make sure they adhere. When all my tiles are laid, I go in and grout normally!

Now that my shower is tiled, I can continue the rest of my bathroom renovations. If you would like to see how the entire bathroom turned out click here!

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Table of Contents

• Demolition
• Replacing the Window
• Adding the New Flooring
• Wall Treatment
• Vanity Upcycle
• Tiling the Shower
• The Finished Product

Bathroom Demolition

To start I removed window trim, old fixtures, and drywall. I originally planned to save the tile, but my plans changed when I took out the vanity area. I found severe water damage in the drywall and tile so it needed replacing. When the bathroom was down to the studs I called in my plumber and electrician. The plumber rerouted the sink drain and water lines to the wall, installed a bath fan vented through the roof, and put rough-ins for the bath to become a shower/bath combo. The electrician wired in my new bath fan and installed GFI outlets for me.

DIY Small Bathroom Remodel

With the bones of the bathroom done it was time to build from the ground up! Before hanging drywall, I screwed pieces of 2 x 4s into the framing to act as a shelf for the top sheet of drywall to sit on. I’m so proud I did all of the drywall myself. I kept the bathroom’s toilet and bathtub since they were in good shape and drywalled around them.

To build a custom niche next to the vanity, I made a box out of scrap plywood and screwed a 2 x 6 support into my framing. I drywalled around it and cut a piece out so it fits perfectly. Then came taping, mudding, and sanding the seams. Finally, after a week of hard work, it was time to prime and paint! But before I could finish the interior I needed to replace the window. 

Small Bathroom Window Replacement

The original window for the lakehouse bathroom was wooden, too low down, and old. The new window I ordered worked with the existing framing width and was raised higher so the neighbors wouldn’t get a show! The window took six weeks to come in which is why I completed three walls of drywall first. I have never replaced a window before but after removing the doorway from the kitchen last year I figured, how hard can it be? Luckily to patch up the outside I still had some leftover cedar wood siding from that previous project.

I sealed up the inside and was overjoyed with my accomplishment. I never thought I could resize a window and I hope that inspires you to tackle DIY projects you think are impossible. 

DIY Small Bathroom Flooring

Moving on to the floor in my diy small bathroom remodel, I filled holes and imperfections in the floor with BONDO and screwed the subfloor into the joists to eliminate squeaks. After a thorough cleaning, two coats of primer were applied as well as a continuous bead of silicone around all the edges as extra insurance. I mixed up my self-leveling concrete, spread it around, and let it dry for twenty-four hours.

The floor turned out amazing and was stable and level enough for me to lay my flooring! I chose a luxury vinyl tile that luckily was easy to install. I scribed the tile to go right up to the curved tub and left an expansion gap on the other three sides. Some cuts were very tricky but in the end, the floor turned out amazing!

Beadboard Wall Treatment

I applied my first waterproofing membrane to the shower drywall and a little beyond where splash-ups might happen to get in and out of the shower. I applied 3 coats of this until a thick layer was built up. Then I began cutting my materials for the wall treatment. The panels I chose looked like old-fashioned bead boards but were only 1/8” thick. I leveled them and nailed them to the wall paying attention to where the seam met between panels to continue the pattern. I sunk the screw heads so I could cover them with wood filler and make them disappear. After an hour of applying wood filler and caulk to all the seams, I could paint! The beautiful color I chose was pigeon gray by Dunn-Edwards DURA.

To seal everything, I used my fast-drying caulk on the baseboard seams and painted them. With the wall treatment done, I focused on the trim and installed my own little custom-built niche shelf. I also reinstalled the original toilet.

Bathroom Vanity Upcycle

I can’t believe I picked up this old vanity secondhand for only $40! This vanity had so much potential with a cultured marble top and a pretty faucet.

I glued and nailed a piece of plywood to the unfinished side that would have been exposed in my bathroom layout. I used wood filler, sanded, primed then painted the whole piece with two coats of the color Shutters by Dunn-Edwards DURA. Once set in place, I decided the vanity was too low so I added in wood legs and stained them to match the home’s trim work. I maneuvered the vanity into place and added a toilet paper holder as well as large handles on the doors.

DIY Bathroom Shower Tiling

The last thing I did in my diy small bathroom remodel was tile the shower. To create my second waterproof membrane, I applied a Musselbound tile adhesive mat in a shower area. I had never tiled before and was meticulous planning out my start and stops everything looked even. I was extremely proud of how it turned out! This tile has a beautiful pearlescent glow and was extremely affordable.

The Finished Product

It’s incredible how far this space has come! The three months of hard work it took for me to get this bathroom renovation all brand new was so worth it!

I hope you enjoyed reading about my DIY small bathroom remodel! If you want updates on my most recent remodels, click to subscribe to my Youtube channel. If you love this bathroom remodel and want to see more, check out the final reveal of the bathroom in my house!

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Table of Contents

• Demolition
• Rebuilding
• Before and Afters

Demolition

The first thing I needed to do was demolish the bathroom. I wanted to keep all the tile work and refinish the vanity so I had to be careful removing just what would be changed. I started by taking out the leaky shower including each of the walls connected to it. I proceeded to remove the plumbing fixtures so the plumber could come to reposition the toilet. I then stripped the paint from the vanity, sanded, whitewashed and put a clear coat of sealer on it. The cracked and stained old countertop also came out in preparation for adding a new one.

Building it Back

I had the plumber come to reposition the toilet and add a vent to the bathroom. My next step was to pull up the flooring so I could patch the old holes. I then cleaned up the subfloor and added supports to the holes left from the old plumbing. After laying quarter-inch plywood over my patch job I was ready to lay new adhesive and patch the floor. The flooring I used is the same glue-down luxury vinyl plank I have throughout the rest of my house.

Once the flooring was complete, I installed fresh drywall where I took the old shower out. The next step was to set the new toilet in place. Once in place, I added new trim, a new door, and a new wall to make a closet. The closet was a fun built-in project made mostly from plywood. You can watch exactly how I made it in this video. From there, I installed the new custom countertop and a new faucet. Check out how to install your own solid surface vanity top here.

I then added new handles on the drawers of the vanity for a cleaner, more modern look. The look of my old backsplash did not fit the look of my new bathroom, so I primed and painted over the glass tile with a gloss black. In addition, I put a new light and mirror on the finished backsplash. Above the toilet I constructed some easy modern shelves for storage and style!

Before and After- Bathroom Makeover Reveal

I am so excited about the finishing result of this bathroom makeover! I turned cramped and dysfunctional into open and modern.

It’s crazy how simply removing the leaky shower helped give the bathroom more functional space with a storage cupboard and a spot for the toilet where your knees don’t hit the door.

In this bathroom makeover, these DIY shelves and cabinets add so much storage and character to this open space. Check out how to build a small closet with plywood here.

The old cracked and stained countertop needed to be replaced, and I am so excited for my brand new beautiful countertop and vanity!

I couldn’t be happier with how this bathroom makeover turned out!! If you love it, leave a comment below! If you love this bathroom remodel and want to see more, check out the final reveal of the bathroom in my house!

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To minimize the effect of the slanted ceilings, we had a wall built cutting off part of the room. On the long blank wall, I designed a hidden door with minimal hardware showing and ran towel hook racks.

The vanity area was a challenge to design because the slant in the ceiling limited what we could do with the mirror. I decided to do an off-center sink, faucet, mirror and wall sconces to make the slanted ceilings look better. This also gave us more counter space on the left side which is nice! Because our sink was off-center, we were limited to a vessel for plumbing. The vessel sink I chose is minimalistic and blends in with our custom quartz countertop. 

A circle mirror also softened the look of the slanted ceilings and wall sconces allowed me to create eye-pleasing symmetry in the space. Our backsplash is a large porcelain marble look tile that I’m in love with! You might have watched my video tutorial on how I grouted it myself! We installed the same tile above our tub shower surround, too. 

Modern Bathroom Renovation

The faucets for the sink and tub shower were modern choices in a brushed nickel finish. I think they pair nicely with all the matte black hardware throughout the room – the shower curtain rod, towel hook racks, vanity pulls, door knob, etc. 

Our floor choice was luxury vinyl plank in a light grey. I have faith it will withstand our bathroom because it is 100% waterproof! I made a popular video on how to lay LVP flooring you can watch to do it yourself! To finish off the floor, I installed simple white baseboard trim. To save money, I actually just bought pine 1 x 4’s and painted them! With some caulk applied to the seams and drywall mud to fill in nail holes, the trim ended up looking really amazing!

The finishing touches like plants, soft white rugs, and a clean white shower curtain added to the spa-like feel of our bathroom.

After two months of a lot of work, we finally have a modern bathroom I am completely thrilled with! I hope you love it as much as I do. Don’t forget to tell me your favorite part of the bathroom renovation in the comments! Please pin these images to inspire others with a modern aesthetic.

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I am here today to show you more of our brand new bathroom! We received a few key pieces of our bathroom from eFaucets.com and I am sure you’ll love my choices. Today the bathroom renovation sneak peak will include the toilet area, the vanity lighting, and the shower space. Believe it or not, there’s even more to see (it’s a big room) so I will be showcasing the final reveal tomorrow!

Modern Kohler Toilet

First off I want to show off our new throne. I had some specific requirements for the toilet we would buy and this one fit the bill for a very reasonable price.

• Highly efficient – this one only uses 1.28 gallons per flush! Now that we pay for water (in our last house we had a well) this criteria was the most important to me.
• Large bowl with a bulk flush option. You won’t catch me plunging anything.
• Lower to the ground (18″ tall) so it is easy for my little kids to use.
• A modern shape with a handle that wasn’t ugly. Call me crazy, but I wanted the lines to look modern so it would fit the aesthetic of the whole room. You wouldn’t think there’d be that much variation in this realm of toilet shopping, but surprisingly there is!

This modern toilet and seat from Kohler fit the bill!

Modern Industrial Vanity Lighting

The vanity lighting I picked was a more unique choice. I brought in some industrial flare to my modern design with these lights and I am very happy with how they look!

My main criteria besides style for bathroom vanity lighting was that they would take normal bulbs. This way I could replace light bulbs whenever necessary and install LED’s without trouble.

These wall sconces I used as vanity lighting, but they would look great anywhere inside your home! I could envision them flanking a bed lighting up end tables and looking really beautiful. You can even mount these up or down – they are so versatile!

Double Curved Shower Rod

The last item I received from eFaucets.com is our shower curtain rod. I chose a matte black double rod for a contrasting look against our white tub shower surround and marble look porcelain tile. Having the second rod gives me options for curtains and liners. Having the curved shape gives me more room in the shower. It’s a win all around!

You can watch this video to see a recap of all the products from eFaucets.com that make our bathroom function so incredibly well! If you want to shop these items (or pretty much anything else you might need for a kitchen or bathroom renovation), visit eFaucets.com. Thanks for visiting to see my bathroom renovation sneak peak.

Don’t forget to pin these images and let me know in the comments what you enjoyed best so far. I can’t wait to show you the final reveal tomorrow!

Also – side note. I feel incredibly blessed when I think about what I’ve been able to accomplish with this bathroom renovation. I think back to the bathroom remodel I completed in our last house and to say this one’s style, design, and end product is superior is such an understatement. Thank goodness my photography skills have improved since then, too!

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Can you tell I went a little picture crazy on the shelves? They turned out just like I envisioned; they are my favorite part of the bathroom redo!

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Wowza.

   

Great Tip: If you’re a messy painter, use rubbing alcohol to get paint marks off plastic and other non-porous surfaces. It works even if the paint is dried! The only thing this doesn’t work so well for is wood, like trim or cabinetry.

 

These modern, funky shelves were my little brainchild after scoring this wood for free off Craigslist. I wanted to install them above the toilet, but I didn’t want to do the plain old two floating shelves of the same length directly above the stool. So I came up with this design where the shelves alternate walls in the corner above where the toilet sits. All three are slightly different lengths with the shortest one being the top. The white metal brackets were free with rebate from Menards.   

Some sentimental treasures on these shelves

And some much needed extra storage!

This is all I’m going to show you for now. Stay tuned for the end result, it’s worth the wait!

Thank you for reading, especially to all my avid readers out there, you are really appreciated!

If you liked this project, SHARE it on Pinterest or on Facebook!

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