Table of Contents

• Wood Plank Ceiling
• Simple Beams and Faux Shiplap
• Galaxy Ceiling
• Lakehouse Living Room Rustic Beams
• Office Fretwork Panel Ceiling

Wood Plank Porch Ceiling

When I was redoing my front porch for the first time, it was clear that the ceiling needed to be redone. There was so much black and white on the exterior of my house that I wanted to add wood to warm it up. This project is very cheap and quick. It only took me three days and cost me a little over $80.

To do this project, I cut strips of very thin plywood to the same width. I chose to run these strips horizontally across the ceiling, which is perpendicular to the existing ceiling planks. For this project, I went to the hardware store and got seven sheets of 1/8 inch thick plywood. I ripped all of the wood down to size using my circular saw. I used polyacrylic on all of the edges once they were cut down. This avoids moisture getting into the plywood planks. To attach them to the ceiling, I used an air compressor and brad nailer combination. In order to get the exact same spacing, I used a quarter between each plank. To finish this ceiling design, I rolled polyacrylic across all of the boards!

This ceiling has now been on my porch for about five years! I still love the way it turned out and how much warmth it brings to the space! If you want to watch the full video tutorial on how I did this, click here!

Simplistic Beams With Faux Shiplap Planks

The next ceiling makeover that I did was in my living room. My living room has beautiful nine-foot ceilings, and I knew they needed something more than just popcorn texture. I chose to make three large beams to accentuate the height of the ceiling. To put anything up on the ceiling, you have to look for the joists. It turns out, my joists run every 32 inches across the ceiling. Once I had my joists marked, I could screw my 2×6 support beams to the ceiling. If you are going to do this, I would suggest predrilling and half-sinking your screws. This wood is heavy, and predrilling makes for less time holding it up on the ceiling! Once my beams were installed, I added my planks. These are made from 1/8 inch thick plywood. I used a nail gun to install these planks. This is a super cheap way to get a faux shiplap look! Once all of these beams were in place, I went around all of the edges with caulk and painted them all white.

Next, it was time to move on to constructing the beams. I used 1 x 6 x 14 feet long lumber for this project. When you buy lumber, you have to sand it down. There are always a ton of slivers, and if you want them to accept stain, they need to be sanded. I used my random orbital sander on all of my wood. After sanding, I went over my wood with a pre-stain wood conditioner. Once that was dry, I went in and stained. When the stain dried, I cut all of the planks to length. I created the beam shape using a homemade jig and finish nails. I attached the beams to my 2×6 support beams using 1 1/2 inch screws.

This ceiling still, 4 years later, looks so good! It is definitely a focal point in my living room. These beams are much easier to build than they look. If you want to try to build them, this video is a step-by-step process!

Galaxy Wallpaper Accent Ceiling

All of the ceilings in my home are plaster and so boring. My daughter requested a galaxy ceiling to make her bedroom more interesting. To make her dreams come true, I found peel-and-stick wallpaper that is an image of a galactic scene. The dimensions of the wallpaper were not quite big enough for the room, but I figured I could add some molding along the edges, and it would work. This solution works well for ceilings that do not look good. You can use any peel-and-stick wallpaper you want to create an accent ceiling. This process is a little bit tedious, but the result is worth it! To install this, you peel the backing of the paper off little by little and stick the wallpaper down. The toughest part of this is getting the seams to line up! Once all of my wallpaper was placed I added molding to cover up the unfinished edges!

This accent ceiling option is one of the easiest to do and I think that you can really transform a space with this. The options for wallpaper are almost endless, so you can customize this however you like. If you want a full install tutorial, check it out here!

Slat Wall and Ceiling Design

This design is not limited to just the ceiling! It flows from the wall up onto the ceiling. I wanted to add visual interest to the bedroom in my lake home so I chose this project! To install the slat wall design, I am using a laser level; however, a regular 4-foot or 6-foot level can also be used. The first step, being straight, is the most important; from there, you can use a spacer to build off of it. I am using a nail gun with 18-gauge brad nails about an inch and a half long, shooting them in at crisscrossing angles. If you shoot your nails straight into the slats can pull right out of the drywall. My slat design goes onto the ceiling; to install these 10-foot-long slats alone, I put up a temporary ledge. I put one end of my slat on this ledge board, then lift the other side and put my nails in.

I love the way this ceiling and wall design looks! It matches the vibe of our lakehouse so well! If you do not want a full ceiling design, this might just be the problem for you. If you want to read about how this entire bedroom turned out, here is the post!

Diagonal Rustic Ceiling Beams

This next accent ceiling is also from my lake house! I had such an extravagant idea that would absolutely transform this formerly dark and dingy space. The beams I built in this space are larger and more difficult to build than the ones I built for my home living room. Using 16-foot-long pieces of grade 2 pine, I cut beveled edges lengthwise on my table saw. I assembled them using packaging tape and wood glue. To get the perfect long beveled edges looking distressed, I came in with some power tools to beat these beams up. Once distressed and sanded, I used a custom mix stain of Chestnut and American Walnut to bring life to the beams. For beam installation, I planned out my wood supports with a laser level and put blocks in the ceiling, then screwed the beams in.

These rustic beams truly make this room look so warm and welcoming. If you want to learn how you can build your own, you can watch the YouTube video!

Fretwork Panel Ceiling

This accent ceiling might be my favorite one I have done. I transformed a bedroom in the lakehouse into an office, and I wanted to add a wow factor. I landed on a fretwork accent ceiling. Not only did I add fretwork panels for a design, but I also painted them and the ceiling green. This created so much visual interest in a space that would have otherwise been a little bit boring.

To install these panels, I used a laser level that was centered on the light fixture in the middle of the room. Then installed my first fretwork panel centered on that. Every other panel was based upon the placement of that first panel. I used a cordless brad nailer to nail them into place. Once all the fretwork panels were in place, I installed crown molding to coverup any edges that were not cut the smoothest. I finished this ceiling off with a beautiful chandelier.

This DIY accent ceiling transformed this office space. It feels so upscale and unique. Want to see the whole bedroom-to-office transformation? Here it is!

Kitchen Accent Above an Island

This is my most recent accent ceiling. I am remodeling my kitchen and I wanted a whole new ceiling! I used to have wood running across the whole ceiling, but I wanted something more exciting than that. Last year I built an amazing kitchen island, so I decided I wanted my accent ceiling to highlight that. This accent is directly above the island and the rest of the ceiling is drywall. I used wood planks to design a rustic, yet modern, look.

I am truly so proud of how this accent ceiling turned out. It was a difficult build. I think it matches the rest of my kitchen and home so well, so all the hard work was worth it.

I hope at least one of these accent ceilings that will transform any space inspires you!

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Table of Contents

• Surface to Work With
• Prepping The Surface
• Tips and Tricks
• Applying the Contact Paper
• Finishing Up

Creating a Surface to Work With

I will be applying my contact paper on top of the drawers I am making inside my new closet. The goal is to make the plywood look like stone! I am starting by placing 3/4 inch thick plywood on the top of the drawers where I want my counter to be. In addition, I am adding a lip along the front. I am using a brad nailer to attach a 1/4 inch thick strip of wood onto the front of the counter to bulk up the thickness of the counter. This step is done to make it look more convincing because a real stone counter is usually about 1 inch thick.

Preparing the Surface for the Contact Paper

Peel-and-stick contact paper sticks best to non-porous surfaces. If you are trying to put it on raw material like raw drywall or raw plywood, you need to seal it first. To do this, I am priming the top and the front of my plywood. Once the primer is dry, you are ready to apply the contact paper!

How to Apply Contact Paper: Tips and Tricks

• Avoid seams by using contact paper that is wider than the surface you are putting it on. This is the contact paper I used! Most rolls come in the depth of a standard counter, but that is not the greatest because you want a little bit of wiggle room on both sides. I like to work with a roll that is 2-4 inches wider than what I am covering.
• Make sure you have enough space to start applying your contact paper for a smooth finish. Because my ceiling is slanted, it was hard for me to get started and get the roll of contact paper back into the corner. I am pulling my plywood out a little bit to help me get started.
• Pull off the backing slowly to avoid wrinkles or creases.
• Work in sections. This allows you to ensure that there are no imperfections before rolling out the rest of the paper
• When pushing down the contact paper, start in the center. This allows you to push out in both directions towards the edges, where the bubbles can escape, rather than allowing the bubbles to congregate in the middle.
• Use a blow dryer to help with tricky edges. This will help to mold the paper to any corners or edges you might be applying contact paper to.

Applying the Contact Paper

I am starting the application by lining up the contact paper roll, with most of the excess across the front and a little bit of excess across the back that I can just fold down. As you apply this you are going to pull your roll out and then slowly pull the backing off. I am pulling this backing off very slowly to avoid wrinkling and creasing. As I move down my counter, I am working in small square sections, so I can make sure that there are no bubbles. To press my contact paper down, I use a credit card. I move all of the air bubbles out and press the paper down to the plywood towards me and then away from me until everything is super smooth. Not only is the contact paper I am using wide enough, it is also super long. This means there are no seams, which is exactly what I want! Whenever you need to cut contact paper you can just use a utility knife, so at the end I cut it to be flush with my wall.

Finishing Up

At first, I thought I would be able to cover the front of the counter by just pulling the contact paper super tight, but that did not work well. It created so many wrinkles, and it just did not look good. I am switching gears and pushing the slab back into place, tight against the slanted ceiling. From here, I am moving forward with caulking. Running a bead of caulk along all of the seams and edges helps to create a convincing look because that is what you would do if you had installed a real stone slab.

Once the caulking is done, I am revisiting the edge of the counter. I am going to use my blow dryer on a low heat setting to help mold the paper to the edge. This works so well, it is giving me the edge finish that I am looking for! Once my edge is fully wrapped, I am going in with my utility knife and cutting off any excess.

This countertop turned out so well! It was affordable and looks so smooth. I hope these tips and tricks for how to apply contact paper help you with your next project!

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Table of Contents

• How to Build an Apothecary: Modifying the Dressers
• Facing Some Issues
• Creating an Illusion of Many Drawers
• Removing Paint from the Drawer Boxes
• Finishing Work
• Reassembling and Sealing

How to Build an Apothecary: Modifying The Dressers

I am going to build this apothecary from a dresser that I picked up from the Facebook marketplace for $60. I think this is going to be more functional because the large drawers will store a larger variety of things. The drawers on this dresser set are not in the best of conditions; some of them are missing their center slides and one was even taped together. I am making A LOT of modifications to this dresser set to turn it into an apothecary cabinet. The first thing I am doing is cutting off the bottom of the dressers to make it flush with the drawers. I am also cutting off some of the scroll detailing on the ridges, I want this to have clean lines!

To get rid of the raised panel router detail on the front of these drawers, I am removing the drawer fronts. When I have the drawer fronts off, I shave them down on my table saw. These drawers are maple and I am SO excited! If you remember I have a beautiful maple hutch in my house that I redid, so I think this is going to match perfectly!

Facing Some Issues

A lot of the drawers are double deep; they just have the facade of two thin drawers. For their fronts, I am able to cut through as deep as I can, but it does not go all the way through in the center. I tried using a planar to get the cuts flush, but that did not work. Another issue has also arrived, I had a drawer casualty. It cracked in multiple places! There is no fixing this, so to troubleshoot this, I think I am going to remove one of the drawers. This apothecary is so tall anyway, so cutting off one drawer will be fine! So, I am modifying one of the boxes and completely getting rid of one of the drawers. To solve the problem of the double drawers I can not shave completely, I am cutting them right down the center and treating them just like the shallow drawers.

How to Build an Apothecary: Creating an Illusion

To get the apothecary cabinet look, I need to give the illusion of lots and lots of little drawers. To do this, I am running my drawer fronts through my table saw, where my blade is very shallow. This cut indicates this is another drawer front. Once all of the grooves were cut, I made a mistake. I decided to fill them with black paint. The idea was it would look like a shadow, but in reality, the contrast was too stark…WHAT WILL I DO?? I am also going in with wood filler to fill in the holes where the old hardware was.

Removing the Paint From the Drawer Boxes

For all of the drawer fronts, I was able to get the paint off with my table saw, but this is not possible for the boxes. I am going through with my heavy-duty belt sander to get the paint cleared. I realize that this is going to take too long because these boxes have four layers of paint on them. Because of this, I am going to strip the paint. My best tip for using a stripper is to use the fast-acting kind and help it out by putting plastic wrap over it while it is wet. This stops the oxygen from drying out the stripper and makes it work faster. Regardless of how you do this, it is a messy task! When I am done scraping off the paint, I am using after wash to make sure that there is no residue left. To get these drawers down to the raw wood, I am sanding more.

Finishing Work

I really want this apothecary to match the maple hutch that I have in the entryway of my house. To do this, I am mixing up a custom paint wash. I am making this by mixing paint colors together and then diluting it with water. I am washing the drawer fronts by brushing my custom color over them with a paintbrush. Once my wash is dry, I am going in with clear, paintable caulk where I could not sand the paint away. When this caulk is dry, I am going to paint it, and it will match seamlessly. The color I am mixing up to cover the caulk will also be used to cover the wood filler that I had to put in the holes where the hardware was. I think these drawer fronts look so good…EXCEPT for the black lines. To fix this I am using the same paint I just used and it lightened up the black and made it actually look like a shadow!

Reassembling and Sealing

At this point, the wood is very textured. This is because I used a water-based wash, which raises the grain of the wood. To fix this, I am lightly sanding everything with a high grit sandpaper. Before I can seal this piece, I have to reassemble the drawers. I do this before sealing so I do not get any dents or scratches in my newly finished poly layer. Now that they are reassembled it is time to seal in my work! In between each poly layer, I am doing a light hand sand to improve adhesion between poly layers. It does create a dust layer, so you have to use a tack cloth to remove this. I am using a satin sheen water-based polyurethane. This is not going to yellow over time and it is very durable.

Apothecaries have a lot of hardware and they all have to be spaces evenly. I am going to make a template for this using painter’s tape. I line up my tape so it is completely straight and centered, then I line up my hardware on it and drill the holes. This tape now has holes that I will use for the rest of my hardware. I am also adding slides on the sides of the boxes so my drawers will go in and out easily.

When I stacked these drawers up, I realized I created the apothecary of my dreams! I am so pleased with how it turned out. The drawers provide so much storage and it is such a good addition to my kitchen!

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Table of Contents

• Placing Panels of Wallpaper
  • The wallpaper I used!
• Cleaning Up the Edges
• Installing Crown Molding
• Installing the Light Fixture
  • The chandelier I installed!
• Finishing Touches and the Final Product

Placing the Panels of Wallpaper

I am using this cool galactic scene peel-and-stick wallpaper to create this galaxy ceiling. The dimensions of the wallpaper are not big enough to cover the entire ceiling, but I decided to add some molding around the edges and it will look just fine. Installing this is an extremely difficult process, getting all the seams to line up would be easier on a wall. When I get to the panel that has to go around the wiring for the light, I cut a hole so the wire can pop through. Many of my seams ended up not being hidden enough, so I had to pull the sticker off and replace it multiple times. When I got my husband’s help the project got much easier, I would recommend doing this project with two adults. The best way that I found to have a crease and bubble-free finish is to use a towel to press the sticker down.

Even though this wallpaper installation has been very stressful and difficult, I think it was worth it! I wanted to give my daughter her dream bedroom and this ceiling definitely made that dream come true.

Cleaning up the Edges of the Ceiling Design

Once all of the panels were placed I went in with a little Xacto knife to cut off the label from the one end of the sticker. The side that the sticker is on is the side that I have the most space between the sticker and the wall, so I have to be very precise. I do not want to take off more of the image than I have to.

Crown Molding Installation

To install crown molding I have to install blocking behind where I will be installing the molding. I am doing this on my table stall, ripping furring strips down to an inch and a quarter with my Grr-Ripper. Once my blocking is installed I have to install the crown molding. This was much more difficult than I anticipated. I have to angle the molding steeper than a 45-degree angle. This is so I get it to cover enough of the mural so the plaster ceiling is not visible.

Light Fixture for the Glow-in-the-Dark Girl’s Galaxy Bedroom

To install the light fixture, I start with my Xacto knife. I cut my sticker wallpaper to a large enough hole so I can access the light receptacle. After I have the hole cut to size it is time to install the light fixture. I chose this amazing chandelier! I think that this chandelier looks like a sunburst and it goes so well with the galaxy ceiling.

Finishing Touches

As a finishing touch, I am going to add glow-in-the-dark paint. I am painting this over some of the major stars in the mural to liven it up, even when it is dark! This ceiling is such a showstopper and my daughter loves it! If you loved this room transformation and want to see more, start on my bedroom makeover!

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Why Buy Faux?

Nearly Natural provides several options for artificial trees, plants, and flowers, as well as seasonal items and accessories. I loved the 30″ Sorghum Harvest Artificial Flower I ordered, which came in a set of twelve. The flowers added just the right touch to our front step. The plants are so convenient because they are maintenance free, just a light dusting every so often is all they need! Another bonus over real plants is that faux are pet friendly, so there is no need to worry about harming your furry animals.

When Nearly Natural’s products first arrive they are compressed in the packaging. Each item requires a bit of fluffing to look their best. This is a before/after of the 82″ Artificial Olive Tree I received. Spreading the branches and adding a larger base made all the difference!

Nearly Natural’s products are made from high quality materials that look and feel life-like. I’ve purchased faux plants throughout my home from other brands and none compare. Nearly Natural really is the best!

I really love how this olive tree gives height and visual interest to my living room design. It’s a year-round decorative accent, but it looks just as stunning outside featured in my autumn fall decor.

Autumn Fall Decor Selection

One of the first things I do once a new season hits is begin looking for decorations. Nearly Natural has a huge selection from wreaths to stems to plants to trees! Nearly Natural also provides a Holiday selection where you will find the most beautiful decorations for the upcoming season.

Nearly Natural‘s website is so easy to browse through to find exactly what you are looking for and I can’t wait to shop more for the holidays! I hope you loved my front entrance autumn fall decor and the way I decorated my living room. It’s so fun to share my favorite stores with all of you!

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Table of Contents

• Cutting the Boards
• Installation
• The Final Reveal

Cutting the Boards

To start, I cut the 2×4 board with my table saw into skinnier slats. I cut my pieces 1/2 inch thick and the board gave me six slats. I decided to get a 10 foot long 2×4 because my ceilings are eight feet tall and the angle of the design would be 45 degrees. I wanted the wood length to be long enough when I put them up on the wall. When picking out my 2×4 at the lumber yard, I took my time finding one with minimal blemishes.

The next step after slicing all the pieces on my table saw was to sort them out and sand them. I made sure to lay the side with the least amount of blemishes on top and then sanded it with my Random Orbital Sander. Then I primed all of the slats and prepared my bedroom for the install.

Installation of the Geometric Accent Wall

I took down the wall decor and moved furniture out of the way so I could mark the studs on the wall. I use this magnetic stud finder and it works so well, I totally recommend it! I nailed the slats in with my Ridgid cordless brad nailer where the studs were so they would be tight against the wall.

On all but one of the slats, I cut a 45 degree angle on one of the edges. For the remaining slat that went across the entire wall, I cut the angle on both sides. Some people like to plan out a design for their wall before they start, but I just winged it and I love how it turned out. After all of the slats were up, I caulked all of the edges so there wouldn’t be gaps showing. I then sanded down all of the slats and wall so everything would look great for me to paint over. The next step before painting the wall was to wipe everything down with a damp wash cloth. Then it was time to paint! I used a brush against all of the edges and rolled the flat parts with Dutchboy paint in the color Sandbar White.

For additional renovations to my room, I added some new blackout curtains. We also got a new Tuft and Needle hybrid mattress that is so comfortable and soft to lay on. It also does a great job of keeping your temperature regulated when you sleep. I definitely recommend this company if you are in the market for a new mattress! The last thing I did was install some lights over our bedside tables to finish the look.

The Final Reveal

The final turnout of the geometric accent wall was better than what I could have imagined. Especially since I didn’t plan or measure anything out beforehand. I just cut and went! It’s a beautifully modern and minimalistic design that adds so much subtle interest to the room.

Don’t forget to pin this image to inspire you to make a geometric accent wall of your own!

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Table of Contents

• Preparing the Branches
• Standing the Tree Up
• Shaping the Tree
• Project Reveal

Preparing the Branches for the Tree

My idea was to transform this trashed Christmas tree into many reusable artificial trees to decorate my house. This process is very easy to do and is great to repurpose your tree instead of adding it to the landfill. This tree has six branches with hooks that hook into the tree stand. I decided to put two of these branches together and put the hooks at the bottom. I did this by wiring the two branches together with a florist wire by cutting it about six to eight inches long, then twisting it and wrapping it around both of the branches.

Standing up the Tree

I initially thought of using a canvas bag to put the reusable artificial tree in, however, the tree had a hard time staying up. Instead, I decided to use a planter and filled it with rocks. You could even add dirt to help it stay secure against the wind. For my second tree, I decided to fill the planters with landscape rocks. This was very easy to work with because it packed in there tightly and made the tree very sturdy.

Shaping in order to Reuse the Artificial Tree

Once I got my branches to stand, the tree looked very misshaped because the longer branches were at the top while the shorter branches were at the base since the hooks were in the planter. To fix this, I pulled the bottom branches out as far as they would go, twisted the top branches around the center, and pointed them inward so it looks more coned-shaped. After a couple of minutes of shaping, the trees looked great and were ready to go!

The Recycled Artificial Christmas Tree Reveal

I loved this craft and I hope you do too. When you reuse an artificial Christmas tree it not only turns out beautiful, but it helps to reduce, reuse, and recycle. I am so excited to see what else to add to this quick and easy recycled artificial Christmas tree. If you would like to see another Christmas tree DIY check one out here!

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Table of Contents

• Cutting the Glass
• Cutting the Frame
• Spray Paint and Assembly
• Shining Brass Candlesticks
• Final Product

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Cutting the Glass

With the style that I went with, I only had enough space for one mirror since I wanted more of an arch style. I am using the Glass Cutter by Red Devil, which can be found on Amazon. I traced a bowl about the same width as the mirror to get that perfect arch. Originally, I had read online that oiling the mirror can help get a smoother cut, however, I found that it was just easier to oil the wheel in the cutter.

After tracing a semi-circle, I placed the mirror above the bowl to break off the cut-off pieces. Unfortunately, none of the pieces broke off in a clean line, but I was able to remove bits and pieces that I could break off close to the cut line using a pair of pliers. I also ended up cutting off the base of the mirror as well, because it was too long for the type of mirror I wanted. I did this by cutting the same way as when I traced the bowl, just cutting a straight line rather than a semi-circle.

Cutting the Frame

For the frame, I used a half-inch thick plywood and traced the mirror as an outline. Using a 1 1/2 inch block that I cut out, I traced it along the bowl that I set on the outline to get the smoothest line for the frame. Cutting off the outside of the frame, I rounded the edges for a more curved look. Then using the jigsaw, I drilled a hole on the inside of the plywood, carving out the inner part of the frame, also giving it more of a curve. To smooth the ends of the frame, I added edge banding and then sanded down the ends. (I found that a curling iron really helped stick the edge banding to the inner curves of the frame!)

Spray Painting and Assembling the Frame

For the spray paint, I used Rust-Oleum’s gold mirror finish, which is one of my favorite brands to work with especially for spray paint. I evenly sprayed the paint throughout the frame, as well as two other frames from the different mirrors that I had found and decided to repaint. Around the frame, I used Loctite’s All-Purpose caulk, which held the mirror perfectly in place on the frame.

Shining the Brass Candlesticks

Since I bought some secondhand candlesticks, I had to clean them up because they were horribly tarnished and discolored. I found a recipe online on how to shine the brass. It called for one teaspoon of salt, half a cup of vinegar, and as much flour as needed to make it a paste. Covering each candlestick in the paste, I let it sit in a plastic bag for hours. However, I let mine sit for too long, as they started to turn pink, so I would suggest letting them sit for only an hour or less! Buffing them with steel wool did bring back some of the undertones to make it look more brassy.

Christmas Mantel Decor

Putting the three mirrors on the mantel, I staggered the candles on each side of the mantel. I also screwed little hooks onto the sides of the mantel to hang up some frosted garland to give it more color. I love how this mantel turned out, with the gold mirrors and candlesticks to add more character to the fireplace. This project was easy to do and the perfect decor to get you into the spirits for the holidays!

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Today I’m excited to share an easy DIY spring project to get you thinking outside the box about planters. I am going to upcycle two different planters with Rust-Oleum’s Imagine Stone Effects Spray Paint. One is a ceramic planter I picked up on sale from Michael’s craft store. The other is actually a popcorn tin!! Enjoy this planter spring craft and let me know if you give it a try.

DIY Popcorn Tin Planter

This popcorn tin first needed a base coat so I used Rust-Oleum Imagine Chalk spray paint in White Linen. This spray paint had an extremely matte sheen which felt just like chalk paint to the touch! After about five light coats, the whole popcorn tin was opaque.

When this paint had dried fully, I taped off where I wanted my stone texture spray paint to give the effect of a cement-dipped look. For the popcorn tin planter I used the color Pebble and for the black planter I sprayed the color Gray. The Rust-Oleum Imagine Stone Texture spray paints are available at Joann craft stores if you’re interested to try them yourself! Watch the video above for a full tutorial on how to successfully use them.

DIY Spring Planters

When the multiple coats of stone texture spray paint had dried a few hours, the tape and plastic could be removed to reveal my beautiful design! I love how the black one looks dipped in cement and the pebble stone effect adds texture to the popcorn tin. I put a plastic insert inside the black planter for drainage. The popcorn tin planter I drilled holes in the bottom and then used the lid as a drain tray for excess water. After filling with plants and potting soil the next day, this is what I ended with!

Planter Spring Craft

This planter spring craft is so easy anyone can do it! I hope I inspired you to customize planters in your home and think outside the box for items that can become planters with a bit of spray paint. Until next time!

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Hi everyone! Today I am here to share my most recent Christmas crafts with you. I made all of these using Rust-Oleum’s Imagine glass effects spray paint in frosted glass and sea glass. I’ll show you three different frosted glass Christmas crafts and then you can pin your favorite!

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Frosted Glass Christmas Ornaments

The first craft I hope to inspire you with are these personalized bulb ornaments. I got the cheap plastic bulbs on after Christmas clearance for pennies on the dollar and transformed them into high-end looking decor. Simply use stickers for your writing and spray paint with Rust-Oleum’s frosted glass spray paint!

When the spray paint was dry, I removed the stickers and applied glitter to the tops. Once reassembled, they were beautiful!

Sea Glass Hurricane Vases

The next decor piece I upcycled were these plain glass hurricane vases. Here I used the sea glass spray paint and styled them with beachy items for more of a Coastal Christmas vibe. I created the lines of plain glass by placing rubber bands around the vases before painting. This negative space is an area candle light flickers through brighter when the vases are lit up!

Deer Silhouette Mason Jar Luminary

Last but not least, I created a snowy scene inside a jar by frosting the glass, adding faux snow and glitter, and adding embellishments. Then I placed a cut-out silhouette of a deer as well as some pine trees in black paper. This looks perfect during the day as well as shadowy cool lit up at night!

Frosted Glass Christmas Crafts

I hope you enjoyed these ideas and they got your creative juices flowing as you begin crafting for Christmas! Happy holidays everyone!
Learn more about Rust-Oleum Imagine Glass Effects spray paint here and buy it here!

Affiliate links to products seen in these crafts:
Spray paint handles
Jute
Mod Podge
Faux snow
Glitter
White multi-surface paint
Hot Glue gun

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